0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
The previous owner thoughtfully(?) glued the cab to the frame, and the front of the bed, but I managed to pry the bed loose. Two cuts, reverse the section with the wheels, and glue everything back onto the bed. No measuring, just make it "look right".
For anyone wanting an interesting farm truck, here's one I like. I kitbashed a very similar one from a CMW cab, a shortened Athearn stakebed and rear frame, some GMM ladderstock, and a lot of styrene scraps. Naturally, mine also got the repainted fender, as that's part of the character!http://www.confluence.org/confluence.php?lat=24&lon=107Photo by Targ Parsons, July 1, 2004
Are you still doing clear casts by request? When that Ford PU is ready I'm wanting a couple dozen at least for autoracks + on layout. And trucks like the Loadstar that will find placement @ industries close to viewers would welcome clear casting as well. Or separate windshields...
Sorry, we are not taking special resin requests at this time. But we are working on making them with hollow cabs, glazing and interiors. Way better than clear cast resin.
Hollow cabs, glazing and interiors on the '67 Ford pick-up?! Hurray! When will they hit the eBay store shelves?
The Pete 377 will be the first model with hollow cab, etc. (unless I get a big order request from someone requiring vehicle for autoracks or something).
No specific release date yet, I'm still working on getting my pressure pot blended into normal production. I have over 60 items in my catalog and pressure casting requires that I remake all of my molds. The Pete 377 will be the first model with hollow cab, etc. (unless I get a big order request from someone requiring vehicle for autoracks or something).
What changes do you need to make to the molds for pressure casting?
Since all of my old molds were made without any vacuum or pressure, I found out (the hard way) that they are full of bubbles. Not usually a problem when casting without pressure, but as soon as you pressurize them any bubbles near the surface of the image form either little balls of resin on your casting where the bubbles in the rubber popped, or teats where the bubble collapsed creating a sort of a tiny cone shape on your casting. Since I don't have a vacuum chamber, an associate advised me to do what he does and pressurize my new molds after pouring them until they cure. I also switched to Smooth-On Mold Max, which is a more durable compound than what I was using. This solved all of my pressure casting problems. It's going to take some time to get everything changed over but the outcome is well-worth it for bubble-free resin castings. My rejects have diminished considerably.