Using Old Dry Transfers

[BCR751]

I have a bunch of old dry transfers that will not come off the backing paper.  I've tried using heat to soften them, applying them to decal paper first, using various types of burnishing tools, all to no avail.  Anyone have any ideas/suggestions for getting these things to work?

Doug

[DKS]

Two things happen to old dry transfers: they won't come off the sheet, and they also won't stick to the model. I've tried a variety of things and any of them that got the lettering to release from the sheet caused the lettering to crack, distort and/or fall off the model. Best thing to do, sorry to say, is pitch 'em.

[pedro]

This worries me... How old is old? Is it an environmental issue (improper storage) or something inherent in dry-transfer "tech" that makes them short-lived?  I have a small horde of CDS transfers that I've been sitting on for 10 years or more. Now that appropriate PS-1s are finally coming (7, 8' doors) I probably won't be able to use them. Just my luck...

[DKS]

Not all dry transfers are created equal, to paraphrase, as quality is highly variable. I've had some that lasted a decade or more, while others crapped out after just a couple of years. As far as I know, the only way to find out is to try it. Transfer something not useful on the sheet to a scrap of painted plastic. If it works, you're in luck! If not, they're ready for the circular file.

[peteski]

While I have never tried this, maybe brushing some Naphtha (my favorite flammable solvent) onto the front side of the backing paper would release the bond?  By Naphtha I mean VM&P Naphtha (solvent from a hardware store) or Ronsonol lighter fluid.

Try this on some some small transfer (not to possibly ruin them even further).

[LV LOU]

 I wonder if something like Micro Sol would do the job? I would think Micro Set,or any other actual solvent would destroy dry transfers,but since Micro Sol just kind of softens them a bit,and makes them stick better,maybe it would work.I've used it on old decals before wetting them,and most worked except for some really bad,really old stuff,20 years or so old.Put it on,let it visibly dry,then try them..

[nkalanaga]

I have some truly ancient CDS dry transfers, and they work as well as new.  On the other hand, they've been stored in the back corner of the coolest, darkest part of a walk-in closet, under part of my layout, which may have something to do with it.  I also have some commercial DTs from ChartPak, which are at lest 30 years old, and are less reliable.  They've been stored in the same place, but not in plastic bags, just staked on their backing paper.  That's the way they were sold at the office supply store, so not much choice.  Some of them still work very nicely.  The next sheet in the stack won't transfer at all, no matter what I try. 

You can try transferring them to decal paper and making a wet decal from them.  If they won't transfer, it won't help, but at least you won't have part of a DT on your car that will have to be removed when you start over.  I do that a lot anyway, especially if the DT has to go between ribs of other details.  The CDS backing sheets don't fit around details well...

[Philip H]

My experience is that the higher the humidity, the  shorter the shelf life of most brands of dry transfers.

[LV LOU]

You can try transferring them to decal paper and making a wet decal from them.  If they won't transfer, it won't help, but at least you won't have part of a DT on your car that will have to be removed when you start over.  I do that a lot anyway, especially if the DT has to go between ribs of other details.  The CDS backing sheets don't fit around details well...

Perhaps trying to transfer them to a WET sheet of decal paper would work..Place the sheet on a flat unpainted wood surface,Dampen the glue on the sheet just enough to make it sticky,then put the transfer on it,pressing it down with something flat and heavy.You'd need wood or some other porous surface to let the water escape so it will dry.Should make ANY transfer into a useable decal after you remove the top sheet and coat it..Hmm..May make all those transfer sheets floating around out there a lot more attractive..

[CoalPorter]

I wonder how old is old too? I have some really old (15 YEARS) CDS and
they still work fine - just used one the other day.

I do remember sometime back when CDS and Cloverhouse had to change inks
to use safer less toxic chemicals. Maybe the newer ones arnt as good ?

[nkalanaga]

I've never had any luck putting DTs on a damp surface, so doubt that I could put one on wet decal paper.  The problem with most of my failures is that the transfer won't come off the sheet at all, not that it won't attach to the surface.

[LV LOU]

I've never had any luck putting DTs on a damp surface, so doubt that I could put one on wet decal paper.  The problem with most of my failures is that the transfer won't come off the sheet at all, not that it won't attach to the surface.

I'm not saying to try to transfer them onto wet decal paper.I'm saying,put them on the paper while it's wet,then,after it completely dries,the transfers should be stuck to the now hardened glue on the sheets.Coat with a suitable decal coating,should now be a decal.......

[nkalanaga]

OH!  OK, that might work, if the transfer isn't stuck too tight to the backing.  In the case of the old ChartPak sets, I had trouble scraping some of them off the sheet, so they may be permanently unusable. 

I hadn't thought of "decal paper" as just a "carrier for glue", and laying something on it to glue it to the paper. 

[LV LOU]

OH!  OK, that might work, if the transfer isn't stuck too tight to the backing.  In the case of the old ChartPak sets, I had trouble scraping some of them off the sheet, so they may be permanently unusable. 

I hadn't thought of "decal paper" as just a "carrier for glue", and laying something on it to glue it to the paper.

Perhaps my first idea of using Micro Set[not Micro Sol..] to give them a little life first would help..