Canyon Diablo Bridge

[TrainCat2]

I am trying to get back into things and have been taking an hour or two here and there doing some modeling for myself. Kinda my own therapy. So I started assembling the Canyon Diablo bridge prototype that I etched back in July. I will also fully document the build with photos from soup to nuts, but I thought I get a couple of photos up to start the waters flowing again. First the actual bridge:

Here is a rare picture of the actual first bridge to span Canyon Diablo. The bridge is 544ft long and over 220ft above the canyon floor. Image the passengers thoughts crossing this bridge!!


The new bridge was a more massive structure designed and built for the ATSF by the Kansas City Structual Steel Company.


The model begins. I built one of the truss sides and it is fully soldered. After being soldered, I remove any excess solder with a Dremel sanding drum and a light touch. This also aids in the adhesion of the detail overlays that contain all of the rivets and markings.



I'll post more as I get some time and I should have a truss side with me in Springfield.

[draskouasshat]

Hell yeah Bob! Looks great. Id pick on up if it was closer to cajon!!!!! Maybe ill make a diorama for one!

[RWCJr]

Remember reading an article in MR a while back, ok a long time ago, about a model of this bridge being built in HO. Was a good article with some history of the bridge. But to see this being done in N scale, in brass is going to be a pleasure to follow. Impressive workmanship!!

[Hornwrecker]

Nice soldering!

A few tricks I've learned making and repairing brass musical instruments, which someone might find useful: 

• wipe the joint while still hot with a Q-tip (or cloth for larger areas),
• if the joint is already cold, apply a small amount of liquid ZnCl flux, reheat lightly then wipe.
• ask your dentist for any broken  tools, these make great micro-scrapers even if one end is broken.  Broken ends can be ground to shape.  Scraping is easy and means less grinding/sanding later
• Cratex bonded rubber wheels in a Dremel or shaft tool remove excess solder quickly, and come in four grit sizes.  I normally use XF in my Foredom tool to clean solder joints before buffing.
• when soldering close to an already soldered joint, apply a wet cloth over those areas to keep those joints cool

That's all I can think of offhand for this ridiculously small soldering jobs that you do.  I don't think I have the patience to attempt something like what you've done ; )

[Cajonpassfan]

Welcome back Bob, nice to see you doing modeling again
Regards, Otto K.

[eric220]

Good to see you back, Bob.  Unfortunately, I have no need for this particular model, but it certainly looks spectacular.

[pnolan48]

Good to see you back, Bob! Do you have a table at Springfield? I'm too far away to make it this year, and see that the waiting list for tables is about 2/3rds as long as the exhibitor list. Hope the family health continues to improve.

[Philip H]

Bob,
Welcome back man.  We've all been pulling fo ryou and yours - I can't imagine what you've been through the last few months, but as someone who modeled through some dark periods in his own life, I know it can be a healing balm.

As to the bridge, how many overlays do you think you'll have to do?  And what motivated that overlay vs. straight etch approach?

[unittrain]

Welcome back!! Your models and kits are always inspirational into the engineering and design side of exact prototype equipment as I do kit building and scratchbuilding I have the lines west bridge and several B&O and Pennsy mast signals and they are excellent models. It is also great to see someone who pays close attention to bridges because they are really needed in this scale.

[babbo_enzo]

Welcome back Bob, nice to see you move your hands on some models again!
As a man who have experience of both bad and good, I now know that both isolation or too much involved in peoples is not the best. Wish you my best and , why not, hope we all can enjoy more in the near future of your modeling capability.
Take your time but ... take care
Cheers
Enzo

[randgust]

Wow, glad to see you back and this particular model.

I've told you this before, I'll say it again.  I want it, and even if it means tearing a wall out and reframing a room to make space for it, count me in.   In fact the other day I was lamenting the fact that I wasn't sure if you'd ever get to it now, and that was the one 'big change' to the existing layout that now might never happen without you producing it.   

[Bremner]

Welcome back! Family always comes first, but your sanity is up there too!

[FrankCampagna]

The original concept of a hobby is to free us from the real world for a while. Hope it helps. Your usual extraordinary work. Thanks for sharing.

[TrainCat2]

Thanks for the warm welcome guys.

Philip,
To create the rivet, gusset and tie plate detail, I have to etch into the metal to several depths. This would make the finished sheet way to thin and fragile for assembly. Instead, the structure is flat .010" brass with tabs and slots and goes together like a puzzle. The solder just holds everything in place. On top of the structure, I will add the detail overlay that will give the clean finish and hide all solder joints, tabs, slots, etc. Where applicable, I will add the gussets on top of the detail overlay to achieve the prototype structure.

Randy,
I was counting on you and Jim Hinds anyway.   

Pete,
I usually have a rather large area that accommodates six tables right across the doorway from Exactrail in the Better Living through Modeling hall.

[SD452XR]

I go over that bridge almost everyday. Can't wait to see yours!