Dirty Atlas Code 55 Track

[davefoxx]

Forum,

Is anybody else having trouble keeping their Atlas Code 55 track clean?  I admit that my layout is located in a basement that is dry but probably considered a little humid.  However, I have two dehumidifiers running down there, keeping the humidity at approximately 55%.  After only two or three days, though, the rails become dirty enough that trains won't run well without another cleaning of the track.  The rails almost feel "sticky," i.e., sliding my finger along the rail, it does not glide along as it does when the track is clean.  Interestingly, when I do run my finger along the rails, I am NOT getting the black oxidation that usually shows up as the track oxidizes.  This, of course, is because I am cleaning the track every two to three days.

I am using a Brite-Boy to clean the track and have not tried any liquid cleaners yet.  I may also consider replacing one of the dehumidifers that does not work as well as the other, but that, obviously is a big expense I would rather avoid.  One of the dehumidfiers must be emptied every two to three days, but the other barely fills a quarter of the bucket in that time.  I dump the water outside and not just into the sump crock, so the water is removed from the basement (I actually use it to water some potted plants outside).  Neither are the low-temperature dehumidifiers, so I have them raised off of the floor to prevent them from icing up.

Would the humidity affect the track so quickly, or am I dealing with an alloy problem?

DFF

[Philip H]

Dave,
The chemist in me says the humidity is playing a part, but is probably not the driver.  not sure what else you have down there, but a better description of what you are cleaning off the reals (color, consistency, feel) might help.

In other rail cleaning discussions here and elsewhere I have seen a lot of talk about abrasive pads being part of the problem, since the grit in them actually scuffs the top of the rail, creating pockets for debris to settle.  I have been known to wipe a rail or two with 91% Isopropyl on a Q-tip, and that seems to help.

Philip

[davefoxx]

Philip,

Thanks for responding.  What is coming off of the rails really has no color, i.e., the rails become dull looking in appearance and my finger does not glide along the rail.  In fact, the rail will squeak, if I put any force on the rail as I slide my finger along it.  I'm not getting that black oxidation that typically forms after a few weeks.  I realize that abrasive blocks scratch the rail, but I haven't really had much problem with that causing the track to oxidize faster in all of my years of model railroading.  Since I have been cleaning the track every few days, debris and oxidation do not seem to be a concern.  What surprises me is that the basement "feels" dry, and I have had layouts in what I would consider much damper basements without this problem.

I'll try the 91% alcohol.  My track is unpainted at this point, but I suppose that would have to be used sparingly and carefully once the track is painted.

Thanks,
Dave

[Scottl]

My code 55 only needs cleaning every few weeks and it is distinctly dark on the coffee filter when I remove it.   We have a cinder block basement, humid climate, and a dehumidifier that removes about 20 litres a day.  I use 91% alcohol to clean and have avoided the abrasives to minimize the scratching.  At a micro scale, scratching increases surface area and potential oxidation. 

Your description sounds more like a coating of oil or something,  maybe one of your dehumidifiers is pumping this out?  I had a room fan that did something like that once and it makes a mess on windows and other surfaces.   Also, if you have a gas stove for cooking, they often put a coating on walls and other surfaces in the house as well, even in the basement if air circulation is limited.

[vt_railroad_guy]

I use code 55 sectional track and I have had no issues at all with buildup on my rails even after weeks of use.  I have never used any kind of abrasive pad on them, only rubbing alcohol to this point.  My layout is also in the basement where the relative humidity hasn't dropped below 60% all summer.

JDB

[mecgp7]

Check anything that has any kind of an exhaust including the dehumidifiers. I have seen issues with an oily and/or sticky film on metal in commercial applications where there are machines producing exhaust. Intake filters should be checked. One way to check is to leave a bowl of water sitting out. If there is a substance being emitted you'll see a film build up on the water's surface.

[Scottl]

That is a great idea.  I was reminded, I get the same kind of film on the inside of my windshield and the dealer told me it was oil from the blower.  Cleans off with windex.

[davefoxx]

Oh, boy, the oil is an interesting theory.  I will remove the dehumidifier from the layout room (it's the one that is not working that well anyway) and see if I get any difference by trying the bowl of water trick.  I'm somewhat relieved to hear that others are not having problems in their spaces with high humidity.

I suppose I should also note that our house that we just bought in May is also my first experience with an oil furnace.  Now, the furnace is obviously not running in the summer (and it was brand new in 2011), so I am hopeful that this is not an issue.  The oil tank is clean and in the opposite end of the partially finished basement.

Anyone see any problems with trying Windex?  I've already got some of this at home, and its fumes are not nearly as flammable as 91% alcohol.

Thanks, guys!
Dave

P.S.: My car also gets the film on the inside of the windshield.  At least I know where it's likely coming from now.

[Bsklarski]

That hazy foggy coating that starts to appear on the inside of car windows is actually the plastics inside the cabin breaking down. As the trim and plastic parts break down over time, they give off fumes, which becomes that coating on the side of your car windows.

[Scottl]

I would not be worried about Windex on track unless it is painted.  The ammonia might impact paint.

[altohorn25]

That hazy foggy coating that starts to appear on the inside of car windows is actually the plastics inside the cabin breaking down. As the trim and plastic parts break down over time, they give off fumes, which becomes that coating on the side of your car windows.

I did not know that; thanks 

Nate

[GaryHinshaw]

In addition to a bowl of water, you could lay a small sheet of metal (e.g. brass) horizontally as a witness sample to see if it becomes sticky or not. You might also be able to visually inspect it more easily.

-gfh

[peteski]

Dave,
the DCC layout I frequent is built with Peco track. It is in a fully finished room in the basement (Sheetrock walls, suspended ceiling, wall to wall carpeting).  The room is very clean. The entire house (including the layout room) is fully climate-controlled (central AC and forced hot-air heating).  If the layout is idle for a week (as it often happens between operating sessions) the track gets "dirty" and we have to run a cleaning train (and do some hand-cleaning on the sidings) to get the trains to run reliably.  We don't use any sort of oily protectant on the rails. Track cleaning is done with denatured alcohol.  I think that nickel silver, when exposed to air (even dry air) develops a layer of oxide after few days.  We are told that the nickel-silver oxide is conductive but I think that is a bit of old-modelers-tale.  While the oxide might be conductive, it is probably nowhere near zero ohms in resistance. So it prevents good electric pickup which is so important in smaller scales.  This is strictly an unproven theory on my part.

EDIT: I should have better described the cleaning train. It consists of the Aztec abrasive-roller car, CMX Clean machine wet cleaning car and then Centerline car with a dry handi-wipe roller to soak up the leftover alcohol.

[MichaelWinicki]

Dave, I know you're using a "dry" method to keep your track clean, but you may want to give a "wet" method a shot and see how long it keeps the trains running.

Since I switched from "dry" to "wet" (I use mineral spirits– as suggested by Joe Fugate, but there are other "wet" type of track cleaners out there) my track cleaning time has become virtually non-existant. 

No stalling.  No lights flickering. 

And that's with most of my frogs not being powered.

I can go out right now rub my finger across the track and a black streak will show up on my finger. 

Do I care and does it impede how my locomotives run?

Nope-Not one bit.

When I was using "dry" methods I was cleaning the track every week or two.  The funny thing is that when I used a dry method, my locomotives would start getting black streaks on the wheel treads and soon stalling would occur.

With the wet method, even though the tops of the rails have a slight black film, the metal wheels on the locomotives do not get the black streaks.

[JSL]

Has anyone on Railwire tried using No Ox. I have not used it, but have heard of a few people having good results with it????