Kato Unitrack vs. Atlas True Track

[davefoxx]

Atlas doesn't seem to be running with this line of track...  I know they include it in train sets but there doesn't seem to be any push to expand it.  If they offered some actual numbered turnouts and code 65 flex, I would consider it.  Code 65 would be about right for the PRR mainline.

I thought Code 55 was supposed to be approximately the correct size for PRR mainline rail (where it's actually too tall for most other railroads).  I think Code 65 would be too big, even for Pennsy.

DFF

[DKS]

Pennsylvania Railroad maxed out at 155 lb. rail, which was 8 inches tall. Code 55 rail is 8.8 scale inches tall. So Code 65 is off the map at 10.4 inches. Most other railroads used ~100 lb. rail, which is about 5.5 inches tall. Code 40 rail is 6.4 scale inches tall.

[rogergperkins]

I have several Kato 20-045 sections in my inventory.
I found an old file posted on the Kato forum that showed this piece used as a transition.
They trimmed off some of the True-Track roadbed to facilitate the fit.
Interesting comments regarding availability because Atlas has the code 65 n-scale True-Track listed as
available on their website. 

[Dave V]

Pennsylvania Railroad maxed out at 155 lb. rail, which was 8 inches tall. Code 55 rail is 8.8 scale inches tall. So Code 65 is off the map at 10.4 inches. Most other railroads used ~100 lb. rail, which is about 5.5 inches tall. Code 40 rail is 6.4 scale inches tall.

Consider me pwned x2...   

[mmagliaro]

I for one would like to know what engines these are that have wheels that are in guage,
but still derail on True Track turnouts, and can you be more descriptive about how exactly they derail?
Do they pick the points?  Pick the frog? You said something about the guard rails.
Is the flange depth not the problem, but rather, are the flanges to thick that they get stuck or ride
up between the guard rails and the main rails?

The reason I ask is that I've run a of older steam, and never seen any problem with it other than
the flanges being too deep for code 55. 

Sorry if you already explained this.  I read through the thread and didn't see an explanation, so I am asking.

[rogergperkins]

My posts are relating the code 65 Atlas n-scale True-Track.  I do not recalling seeing a code 55 version of Atlas True-track, i.e. the type with plastic roadbed.
Atlas lists the track as available in their online store.  I have no experience with the store, so do not know if the track will be shipped to me soon.
There are some online dealers who also list a similar inventory of the track as available.
Walthers however lists most of the items as "out of stock."  I am never certain what that means because in some cases, the item is available in a few days.
Ridiculous way to run a business.

[brokemoto]

Atlas True-Track is the best looking of all of the track-cum-roadbed.  Too bad that Atlas does not offer more choices in pieces.  Too bad that Atlas does not offer a code 65 to 80 transition piece.

What is the problem with Kato #4s?  I am reading hints that  their construction  causes derailments,  but no one is coming out and stating this.  Does this occur at speed?  What about slow speed?   Is it only certain equipment that is prone to derailment?

While on the subject of Kato #4s, the directions on powering frogs and power routing are not clear.  On  mine, there is a screw in the hole that says 'ON' in the frog power slot.  If I want a powered frog, do I leave it as it is, or do I  need to do something else?  The 'OFF' hole is empty.  In the power routing slots, there is a screw in the 'NON power routing' slot for both the 'curved side' and 'straight side'.  The 'power routing slot is empty.  If I want power routing, must I remove the screws from the 'non' hole and put them into the 'power routing' hole?   Or is there something else that I must do?

[vt_railroad_guy]

But in reality, True Track is simply trainset track Atlas could use with their Trainman line...and nothing more.   It is not designed to be setup and rearranged and taken down like Unitrack, and in my experience the rail tends to come out of the tie webbing very easily when separating the track pieces. 

I agree with this 100%.  That said, I have used it for my daughters 2x4 layout and it looks and works well, just as long as you don't need to rearrange it.

JDB

[rogergperkins]

  My personal interest in the Atlas n-scale code 65 True-Track is to use it on my layout which is in place
on a  two inch extruded polystyrene base on one-half inch plywood.  I am not intending to assemble and re-assemble
the track.
I like the appearance and think the color issues can be remedied for the mainline applications I envision.
IF I ever receive the track, my layout would be the reverse of some applications I have seen discussed.
That is, the mainline will be primarily the True-Track, but the Kato turnouts and all Kato yard track will remain as they now are.
 

[brill27mcb]

Atlas True-Track is the best looking of all of the track-cum-roadbed.  Too bad that Atlas does not offer more choices in pieces.  Too bad that Atlas does not offer a code 65 to 80 transition piece.

What is the problem with Kato #4s?  I am reading hints that  their construction  causes derailments,  but no one is coming out and stating this.  Does this occur at speed?  What about slow speed?   Is it only certain equipment that is prone to derailment?

While on the subject of Kato #4s, the directions on powering frogs and power routing are not clear.  On  mine, there is a screw in the hole that says 'ON' in the frog power slot.  If I want a powered frog, do I leave it as it is, or do I  need to do something else?  The 'OFF' hole is empty.  In the power routing slots, there is a screw in the 'NON power routing' slot for both the 'curved side' and 'straight side'.  The 'power routing slot is empty.  If I want power routing, must I remove the screws from the 'non' hole and put them into the 'power routing' hole?   Or is there something else that I must do?

I think the #4 turnout "problem" has gotten overblown over time. Some equipment will derail on some #4 turnouts, usually on the diverging route, and usually when being pushed instead of pulled. Often it is equipment with big flanges. You can either use a file to "feather" the leading top corner of the moving point to make it less prone to being picked by the flange, or you can file a slight notch in the stock rail so the point nestles into it better. Either way takes only a few file strokes, when it is needed at all. Also check your wheelset gauging with the NMRA gauge -- many are a bit tight.

Here's the easiest way to understand the screw positions under the #4 turnout (the cast-on English identifiers are actually backwards for the power routing screws): Basically, if a screw is in the threaded hole where it bridges a hairline crack in the metal base, it will electrically bridge power at all times to the straight route, curved route or frog (depending on which screw you are working on). If it is in the other twin screw hole, it does not electrically bridge any gap and the track power will be power routing or the frog will be unpowered.

Rich K.

[rogergperkins]

I have several #4 turnouts on my layout and so far have not found a problem regarding the power direction aspect.  The power flows the direction the turnout is set.
Several online posts about tweaking #4 turnout by filing... Try the Kato forum.