Seaboard Central 2.0

[davefoxx]

I am no longer a weathering virgin.  This GP38-2 is a long way from being finished, but I'm satisfied with it so far.  I used Micro Sol and Q-Tips to "age" the L&N lettering and road number.  Since I don't own an airbrush, I used chalks to dirty it up.  I also patched the unit for the Seaboard System (SBD) with a decal on the cab subbase.  I have not yet applied a clear coat, because I'm not ready to lock it all down.  I'm still working on the other side.

There's a big difference from the picture of this same locomotive in my last post:


DFF

[Bob Bufkin]

I am no longer a weathering virgin.  This GP38-2 is a long way from being finished, but I'm satisfied with it so far.  I used Micro Sol and Q-Tips to "age" the L&N lettering and road number.  Since I don't own an airbrush, I used chalks to dirty it up.  I also patched the unit for the Seaboard System (SBD) with a decal on the cab subbase.  I have not yet applied a clear coat, because I'm not ready to lock it all down.  I'm still working on the other side.

There's a big difference from the picture of this same locomotive in my last post:


DFF

Hey look, a Silent But Deadly loco.

[jpec]

I am no longer a weathering virgin.  This GP38-2 is a long way from being finished, but I'm satisfied with it so far.  I used Micro Sol and Q-Tips to "age" the L&N lettering and road number.  Since I don't own an airbrush, I used chalks to dirty it up.  I also patched the unit for the Seaboard System (SBD) with a decal on the cab subbase.  I have not yet applied a clear coat, because I'm not ready to lock it all down.  I'm still working on the other side.

There's a big difference from the picture of this same locomotive in my last post:


DFF

You're right...it doesn't look like the same loco...it looks better.  Keep up the great work!

Jeff

[Ian MacMillan]

I like it except for the 4055 on the cab. Could use a bit more rubbing to fade. It kinda looks someone just ran an eraser down the center of the numbers lengthwise.

[davefoxx]

Damn, Ian, good eye!  Between that recess under the cab window and the lip at the bottom of the cab, my Q-Tip was placing more pressure in that one area.  So, I stopped.  I plan on getting an eraser to do the other side, so I'll take some more time to work on this road number further.

DFF

[basementcalling]

There's a big difference from the picture of this same locomotive in my last post:


DFF

Holy hell, it's not blue any more.   

Lookin good Mr. Foxx.

[Bsklarski]

You can also completely remove part of one of the numbers like you see sometimes. Unless you are following photos of the prototype

[davefoxx]

I'm sort of following general weathering patterns of L&N units more than I am a specific photo, since I'm limited by the tools I have in my weathering arsenal.  I took an eraser and some Micro Sol and took off more of the number.  I thought I went too far, but I'm looking through my L&N/SCL/SBD books and am seeing that sometimes the large L&N and road number almost faded completely away!  I am going to go a little easier on the other side of the locomotive, though.

On the 'net last night, I saw a video of someone weathering with chalks and then spraying hairspray over top.  Apparently, that doesn't "erase" the chalk like Dullcote does? It also doesn't seem to effect the window glass as much, if not masked.  Anyone ever try this?  I'm curious as to the long-term effect of hairspray on the model.

DFF

[Bendtracker1]

On the 'net last night, I saw a video of someone weathering with chalks and then spraying hairspray over top.  Apparently, that doesn't "erase" the chalk like Dullcote does? It also doesn't seem to effect the window glass as much, if not masked.  Anyone ever try this?  I'm curious as to the long-term effect of hairspray on the model.

DFF

Once the hair spray is dry you can always go back and shoot dull coat or another form of sealer over the hair spray.
It would be no different than the method for hairspray weathering where they paint something, then cover it with hair spray, then paint another coat of paint over the top of that.

You might have to remove or cover the glazing before hand.

BTW, forgot to add that you did a nice job on the unit, keep it up Dave!

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Damn Dave, that looks really nice, ESPECIALLY for your first go about it. I particularly like the work around the grills.

For a next step, you might want to rust up the coupler a bit, and give the trucks a bit more TLC. Maybe paint the journal guides, add a little brown, etc...

[packers#1]

I'll add to the kudos, and also add to what Ed said about the trucks; make 'em dirty, she is a workhorse after all

[davefoxx]

Thanks, guys!  I did hit the trucks with dust, rust, and black colors, but they're wearing off that slippery plastic due to the continued handling.  I'll hit them, the fuel tank, and couplers with chalk again, before I seal the weathering in Dullcote.

DFF

[wazzou]

Don't be afraid to try some thinned washes of paint on the trucks. 
Once satisfied with the look, you can then add some chalk which will adhere better to the paint.

[packers#1]

The way I weather trucks is by drybrushing them with a paint color that's dirty and muddy; here's a picture of my U23B to illustrate the point. If I remember correctly, the fuel tank has unsealed powders which were added over the paint, but the trucks were only drybrushed.

[davefoxx]

Thanks to Atlas, the Seaboard Central took delivery of two Seaboard Coast Line pulpwood flats today.  I'm making one of the sidings in Southern Pines a place to load pulpwood, although the track is barely, and I mean barely, long enough for two cars.  I really like these cars (although someday I'll make better loads), and my understanding is that they match former Atlantic Coast Line cars fairly close.  As with all of my freight cars, I have already installed FVM wheelsets, but these, like all of my purchases for the last year or so, aren't getting body-mounted couplers yet as we all await the release of NZT's Protomate couplers.



DFF