Seaboard Central 2.0

[davefoxx]

That switch mech is the PERFECT solution for my new Onetrak module. The way I was doing it, I didn't have room for a linear throw.

Do you happen to have an item number for those switches?

Ed,

Radio Shack #275-0409 (pkg. of 2) SPDT submini slide switch.  They aren't the cheapest way to go at $3.69 for two, but I only need a total of twenty for the entire layout.  Plus, they are available locally (I just bought five more packages this evening), and it's probably not so bad compared to the ones people are buying in bulk online if you factor in their shipping charge.

DFF

[davefoxx]

Nice work.  I've been putting these in too and they seem like a good option for manual switching.  I bought a whack of switches off of ebay that are small enough to fit between the head blocks.

Any thoughts on preventing these from seizing up during the subsequent ballast-dilute glue?  I had the thought to put some oil in the switch to keep it moving in case any glue gets in it.

I plan on hand-painting full-strength glue immediately around the switch and then carefully ballasting up to it.  That should keep most of the adhesive out of the switch.  Plus, I think I could easily break any bond by operating the switch, because I don't imagine that a little matte medium in there is really going to bond plastic and metal all that well.

As far as oil, I don't know if that's a good idea, if you're planning to use the switch electrically.  My first instinct is that would be a bad thing, since oil is not conductive.

DFF

[davefoxx]

Plus I can't believe you found a Radio Shack that still carries electronic components.

Heh, it took three stores to get the six packages that I bought so far.  However, the first store I bought from a week or two ago restocked when I bought their one and only pack, so they had four more tonight.  The third store had one package tonight.  Since I have cleaned both of those stores out, it is very likely that they will restock within the next week or so, and I will be good to go.  I only need four more packages (8 switches) to finish the layout.

DFF

[Scottl]

Thanks Dave, that makes sense.  No oil for me.

[Sokramiketes]

Dielectric grease would be appropriate for electrical use.

[Hornwrecker]

Nice to see that switch to switch the switch in a photo.  I wonder if a scale switch machine could be glued onto it ; probably a remote type would hold up best.  Looks like I have an easy solution to replace the monster Caboose throws in my yard.

[davefoxx]

I wonder if a scale switch machine could be glued onto it ; probably a remote type would hold up best.

Probably, and I previously considered doing just that.  But, now that I look at the switch installed, I think I'll leave it as is, because I think adding anything more might just make it even more distracting.  Plus, I fear that it would be very fragile.  Please prove me wrong, and I'll redo it.

DFF

[NARmike]

The slide switch is similar to what I've been experimenting with...





I ordered a 100 piece sample from a chinese maufacturer.

I've installed and tested these on 2 Atlas turnouts and they work fine. A pin is inserted between the switch knob and the throwbar and I just move the points to the position I want with my uncoupling tool. The 1.5mm throw is just right to have the "over-center" of the slide switch keep the points in place and, as a bonus, I can power the frog.

The biggest problem I've encountered is the actual soldering on such a small scale but once it's done they work fine.

What is left to be seen is if the Gorilla Glue that attaches them to the head block tie will withstand repeated use.

[C855B]

That's a cool approach, Mike. I would suggest, however, smaller wire. Like maybe 32AWG that we get for DCC decoder work. The size of wire you show will put a lot of mechanical strain on everything, and is likely to break the glue bond long before anything you do by pushing the points back and forth.

[NARmike]

An excellent suggestion, Mike. This is still in the "experimental" stage so there is a lot of fine tuning to do yet. I have to admit to still being a novice when it comes to soldering and such but I'm very glad that you see the possibilities of the approach... Like Dave, I saw huge ground throws as ugly and the expense of tortise machines and frog juicers as prohibitive and thought that there had to be a better way.

[davefoxx]

If I understand that correctly, Mike, you're switch is completely buried under the turnout and hidden.  That must look great, but I would be concerned for servicing, if one fails.  The idea of having to pull a turnout in the future, potentially destroying my trackwork (especially if ballasted), makes me cringe.  I hope you find that they are bulletproof.  I look forward to seeing your "after" pic once installed.

DFF

[DKS]

I used a vaguely similar approach to Mike's on the old WR&N IV, except I did not mount the switch on the turnout, and I didn't use micro slide switches. Instead, I mounted standard subminiature toggle switches to a bracket, under the scenery nearby, and linked the toggle to the throwbar with a length of brass rod. This allowed me to access the toggle switches as needed. It was also somewhat easier to install, since no special preparations were needed to lay the switch. (So I guess it's not even vaguely similar to Mike's approach; oh, well...)

In addition to the above, I connected a second brass rod to the first one, which passed through the layout fascia, and attached a pushpin knob to it, for manual activation of the switch.

Edit: a picture...



I think most any kind of switch that provides a positive over-center action can be substituted.

[John]

You mean if they are not being used electrically?  Is oil and using it to power the frog a problem?  I have no idea if oil is conductive....

electricity and oil don't mix ..   if you want to use the switch to power the frog, and still lubricate it .. CRC-20

CRC Industries .5 OZ 05109 Di-Electric Grease

[Scottl]

Thanks to those suggesting dielectric grease- that is a new one for me.

Like Mike, I bought a whack of switches via a Hong Kong ebay seller and the 50 cost me about $5 including the shipping.  They are small enough to fit between the head blocks, which has encouraged me to work them along the lines of Dave's approach.

By my way of thinking, the problem with putting them below the ties as Mike suggests is that it requires moving the points, a distance less than the travel of the switch.  I'm not sure that will be a reliable movement once installed.  By contrast, the switch at the surface allows the user to move the switch, and the difference in travel between the slide switch and the points is made up with flex in the linkage. 

To cover up the switch head, I envisioned attaching a NZT switch machine to the top of the switch nub, possibly by drilling an inset into the NZT casting underside to give it a more secure fit.  That way, you are moving the casting and most, if not all, of the electrical switch is hidden.

I'm definitely interested in other approaches to this, but I love the directness of this approach to routing the turnouts and the powering of the frog.  At about $0.10 each, it is also very economical.

[NARmike]

Sorry Dave... It looks like we've Hi-jacked your thread 

I resurected an older thread that was on a similar subject and added the posts from this one.
 
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=25435.new#new
 
Back to Dave's wonderful Seaboard Central 2.0 now...