BLMA 52' Gon

[Bob Bufkin]

Well, I've now got 6 of them and have had only 1 derailment testing them.  That was because I accidentally bumped my controller and the train was going too fast.  No problems with wheels, coupling, chipped paint, etc.  Despite the fact that the older MT gons ride higher and are not the proper length I'm still keeping them and a mixture looks good on a train.  All in all this is a car and when more different cars in my time period are produced, I'll definitely get some.  Good job BLOMA.

[sirenwerks]

...and the train was going too fast....

Too fast? You, Bob, going too fast? I find that hard to believe.

[Packer]

Well, I've now got 6 of them and have had only 1 derailment testing them.  That was because I accidentally bumped my controller and the train was going too fast.  No problems with wheels, coupling, chipped paint, etc.  Despite the fact that the older MT gons ride higher and are not the proper length I'm still keeping them and a mixture looks good on a train.  All in all this is a car and when more different cars in my time period are produced, I'll definitely get some.  Good job BLOMA.

Variety is the spice of life. But what is BLOMA?

IMO, it'd be nice is BLMA went with a 52'6" gondola, like the HO P2k one.

[SAH]

It's tough to have an unloaded N scale gondola (or flatcar for that matter) that stands at an accurate height over the rail AND has an accurate floor-top height meet the recommended NMRA weight, regardless of what it is made out of.  The underframes of both the BLMA gon and the ESM gon are metal.  Both models have an accurate floor-top height as well as an accurate ride height, and are the only two N scale RTR gondola models to meet both criteria.  The advantage to both models riding at a scale height over the rails is that the center of gravity is very low to the ground.  That, along with body-mounted couplers, insures the models will operate well anywhere in a freight consist despite the fact that they are lighter than the NMRA's recommendation.

Must be my substandard trackwork then.  Won't argue with that.  But, a BLMA gon weighted to NMRA RP DOES run just fine.  Now to figure out how to bring an empty gon up weight without changing ride height.  I think it can be done.  Pictures at 11.  Just don't ask me which 11 or which day. 

[MichaelWinicki]

 Despite the fact that the older MT gons ride higher and are not the proper length I'm still keeping them and a mixture looks good on a train.

You make a pretty good point Bob.

It's a topic that I've had rolling around in my noggin for a while, i.e. Getting the proper mix of freight cars so that your trains are visually interesting.

I'll keep some of the not-quite-so-nice-as-these-gons, for the exact reason you stateed, "A mixture looks good on a train."

Over the last six months I've switched gears somewhat when it comes to purchasing rolling stock.  Before it was focusing on northeastern roads that made up the Penn Central or did a lot of interchanging with them.  The result was a sea of Penn Central box cars and a whole lot of brown box cars... With a great many black hoppers.

Now I'm looking for complimentary cars from other lines that simply look interesting and offer a contrast to what I'm currently overloaded with.  And after incorporating a few of those cars I can tell that the contrast I've created does make for more interesting trains.

[Robbman]

IMO, it'd be nice is BLMA went with a 52'6" gondola, like the HO P2k one.

The BLMA gon is a 52'6" gon...

[ai5629]

I received my six preordered Penn Centrals this week.  They are excellent.  The demi data has the distinctive Hollidaysburg font and the weigh station is correct (P62).  I am very impressed by the stirrups and the brake lever as they are super fine.  I do have a question in regards to the brake lever.  Does BLMA have any brake levers available as a spare part?   I am thinking about buying some addition PC cars to strip for Conrail decal projects.  I see that delicate brake lever not surviving the stripping, painting, decalling and finishing steps (due to my rough handling).  It would be nice to have some extras to replace those that don't make it.  Thanks.

Jeff

[MichaelWinicki]

I don't think the weight is a big issue with the gondola.

However out of the several that I received, there were a few that had wheel-sets that were on the narrow side.  These gons were a bit more troublesome on Atlas code 55 switches, given the tread width of the BLMA wheel-sets is a little narrower than other brands.  I re-gauged the narrow wheel-sets and those gons operated as one would expect.

[Mark5]

I've been comparing my gon to my BLMA 4000, which tracks quite well. But my BLMA gon keeps derailing on my Unitrak 15" radius test track.

I noticed that the coupler pocket cover plate seems to be wider on the BLMA gon compared to the 4000:



Actually, it may be more about the wide portion sticking out further, thus increasing the possibility of the wheel flanges rubbing on curves.

I may be barking up the wrong tree here, but I'm gonna try removing some of the material on the plate on both sides as indicated by the red arrows here:



I will report back later with the results.

Interesting little side note, the tread on the 33" wheels seems to be a little narrower than on the 36" wheels.

Mark

[Mark5]

I had some trouble, I removed a wheelset, then snpped it back in, and everything was good.

I did the same, and saw some improvement. Still marginal though.

[MichaelWinicki]

I've been comparing my gon to my BLMA 4000, which tracks quite well. But my BLMA gon keeps derailing on my Unitrak 15" radius test track.

I noticed that the coupler pocket cover plate seems to be wider on the BLMA gon compared to the 4000:



Actually, it may be more about the wide portion sticking out further, thus increasing the possibility of the wheel flanges rubbing on curves.

I may be barking up the wrong tree here, but I'm gonna try removing some of the material on the plate on both sides as indicated by the red arrows here:



I will report back later with the results.

Interesting little side note, the tread on the 33" wheels seems to be a little narrower than on the 36" wheels.

Mark

You hit on a good point about the flanges potentially hitting the coupler boxes on curves.  I'm wondering if it is a problem. 

I'm not sure if the narrow tread width is the problem or the flanges rubbing against the coupler box... But there is an issue with these cars. 

[John]

looks like one is a 1015 couplr and the other a 1025

[SAH]

Following up on weight

Sheet lead cut to size brought the BLMA gon up to 1.0 oz.  It tracks perfectly now.  A google search shows you can buy the stuff on Amazon.  It can likely be found at a local plumbing or roofing supplier.  I have a bunch or scraps I've collected over the years.

I have a temporary turn back loop at one end of the layout.  Tight radius - Probably <12".  The BLMA gons bind pretty badly but they stay on the track.  Would not do so before I added weight.



The other car in the photo is an old AHM 50' gon.  A pretty good model of a Greenville prototype IIRC.  My solution for adding weight is pretty straightforward.  A riff on an article I clipped from N Scale many years ago, J/F 94, written by some guy named Bryan Bussey.     That was the first time it occurred to me that the underframe was fair game when it came to kitbashes.  Thanks Bryan.

Here are the two cars (BLMA & AHM) side by side.  More variety for the gon fleet.  - Steve

[Chris333]

1/16" tungsten welding rods work good for gons. And they come in a handy 10 pack.

[MichaelWinicki]

I pulled all of the BLMA wheelsets and installed MT plastic lo-pros.  Derailments decreased substantially.  The cars still need a boost in weight, but going to the MT wheelsets made a big difference.