Micro-Mark etching kit

[Iain]

I have aquired a Micro-Mark etching kit, and I would like suggestions and tips from the gods here (Chris).

[Chris333]

What do you want to know?

Have you etched anything yet?  Etch a few times and it will all become second nature. First few times I did it I was reading the instructions at each step.

[kiwi_al]

He needs to know how to open the packet ;D

[Iain]

I'm working on drawings in Autocad at the moment.  I'll report back success or failure on etching.

[Bob Bufkin]

At least now He can tell all the girls to come up to his place to see his etchings ;D

[Chris333]

Let me know if you run into trouble.

You know I just got their catalog today and the etching kit is on sale till Sept 8th for $97.30, down from $155. Back when I got mine it was on sale for $99.

About opening the box... There is a note right on top that says something like. Please read all instructions before opening so you can return it if you think you can't do it.

[Iain]

I did finally manage to find the instructions in the packet with the metal and transparancy thingies.

[chessie system fan]

Ian, make sure to print on the right side. I made that mistake once.

I'm curious.  What "color" are your transparencies?  Are they crystal clear or sort of a milky translucent color.  I'm asking because I orders my set a couple of years ago and ordered new transparencies last Dec. Finally got around to using them--the are sort of milky colored--and it seems the ink won't absorb no matter what printer setting I use. >  My older ones worked fine.

[Chris333]

I bought Hammer Mill transparencies from Wal-mart for way cheaper than Micro Mark.

How about 100 sheets for $15:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hammermill-Premium-Inkjet-Transparency-Film-100-sht_W0QQitemZ360163726544QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090619?IMSfp=TL090619185001r6775

[randgust]

With a lot of help from Chris I got mine to work.  The only thing that I think I advanced on this front was to come up with an acid agitator in the tank made entirely from K'nex plastic parts.  Worked WAY better than the bubbler and cut the etch time in half.

I still have more trouble getting the CAD right than I do the actual etching.

[chessie system fan]

That's a whole lot better than $15 for 6 sheets!  

[ednadolski]

I've been thinking about trying the MM kit, so I'd like to ask - what are your thoughts about etching as a technique?  Did you find it easy, difficult, worthwhile, etc?   What are the benefits/tradeoffs for the MM Kit, as opposed to working with some kind of etching service?   How hard is it to do more elaborate effects, such as half-etch and raised rivets?

Thanks,
Ed

[Chris333]

If you can make the artwork then it is pretty easy.

The MM kit has everything you need. Having the etching done by a pro is pretty expensive.

Half etch is easy. I tried raised rivets once:

Not the best, but I haven't tried it with .010" yet. If you want rivets you might want to have a pro do it.

[ednadolski]

Thanks Chris.  To me the artwork isn't too much of an obstacle, I'm more hesitant about handling nasty chemicals, or if the kit has bugs/issues that might make it problematic.

If you send them artwork, would that make a pro any more time- or cost-effective?

Those etched rivets look pretty good.  What are the materials & dimensions of the rivets?   Are those some unwanted holes where the etchant ate thru?

Ed

[Chris333]

The chemicals aren't that bad. The etchant will stain your skin though. The developer is kind of nasty, but you thin it with water. And each step involves water so it is easy to wash up any spills. I wear through away rubber gloves.

Using a pro etcher would be good if you wanted a whole sheet of something. Lets say your piece is 1" square and you have a whole 24x12 sheet done. You pay $300+ for the whole sheet, each piece ends up only being .98 cents. So that isn't bad. Usually I just need a few of something and want it now.

That photo is of .005" thick brass. To do rivets like that you need to half etch the whole piece and it is hard to make that happen evenly at home. Plus now the bulk of the piece is now only .0025" thick and like foil. Those holes were for hand rail placement, but you see it did eat though some.

Pro etchers us big tanks that spray the etchant at the metal under pressure. At home we are just dipping the part in a bath and trying to agitate it, but it won't be as even as a constant even spraying will. I say do the easy stuff at home, try the harder stuff. If it doesn't work either simplify it (dimple rivets) or send it out to be done. There are some places that will do smaller sheets. Still you need to make the artwork to their needs and send, wait, then they send back your parts. I haven't had anything etched yet, but have drawn stuff up their way. With CAD you need to use 6 color coded layers. Not too hard, but it does take longer. CAD is all I know how to use, some etchers use other programs and can't except CAD.