Electromagnetic uncouplers

[sirenwerks]

I'm not a gearhead when it comes to electrical work. In fact, the electronics aspect of the hobby is one I fear the most. And this is effecting the design of the modules I hope to complete this year.

For instance, I have resolved to use New Rail Models Blue Point turnout controllers, to simplify turnout operations. I'd prefer the slow action of Tortoise switch machines but the cost is a bit hefty for all the switches I intend on having (it will be, after all, a switching layout), so I'll just have to fake the slow action with the NRM controls. Lately I have been looking at how to address uncoupling on the modules and am not liking the idea of manual uncoupling. Because of the layout height I want and because there will be numerous industries close to the front that will be unprotected from elbows and armpits (it is an industrial park setting with parallel warehouses on both sides of the 'main').

So while I am still wrapping my head around the concept of how non-electrical magnet uncoupling installations work, I am thinking about electromagnetic uncouplers. I Googled the term and came up with some interesting possibilities, including altering the Kadee HOn3 version and a few DIY how-tos. And a curious patented design (http://www.freepatentsonline.com/3476264.html). I am curious if anyone out there has had any experience in creating their own, or altering the Kadee unit, or even tried altering the Peco PL-25, which is made for another coupling system altogether different from the MT couplers. Or any arguments against them, or suggestions for any non-manual alternatives.

Your informed input is greatly appreciated.

[DKS]

I haven't come across an electromagnetic uncoupling design that was both simple and reliable, so I opted for drop-down under-track magnetic uncouplers. Here's an article I wrote on them, with design suggestions for using them on mainlines where they need to be disabled.

http://whiteriverandnorthern.net/clinic_30.htm

[pfs]

David

Did you try the hinged version?

Results?

Thanks for the info.

[DKS]

David

Did you try the hinged version?

Results?

Thanks for the info.

I hadn't gotten to the point of installing any (had to tear the layout down before I did), but I've received a message from another modeler who had success.

[pfs]

Thanks.

I think I will try this on a module. I have to think about it based on track location.
But the snow will melt before there is any track laid.

[sirenwerks]

Elegantly simple solution, David. Thanks. Out of curiosity, your diagram shows a gap between roadbed and the tin plate. Is this for diagramming ease, or does this serve some mechanical or electrical purpose?

[DKS]

Elegantly simple solution, David. Thanks. Out of curiosity, your diagram shows a gap between roadbed and the tin plate. Is this for diagramming ease, or does this serve some mechanical or electrical purpose?

Look at the space occupied by the magnets themselves in the raised position, and you'll see why this gap exists (the magnets are wider than the track).

Note that the moveable block does not have to be hinged across (perpendicular to) the tracks as shown; it can be hinged in line with the track as well. This may simplify things when the subroadbed is narrow.

Also note that you can use the drop-down method with other uncoupling magnets, like Micro-Trains' under-track magnet, or the one from (forget who) that uses four small, stretegically-positioned cylindrical magnets on a plate.

[sirenwerks]

Look at the space occupied by the magnets themselves in the raised position, and you'll see why this gap exists.

Thanks again, I see it now. Now all I need to do it alter that plan to work with under the benchwork and a 2" layer of pink foam. Something more akin to an elevator rather than a hinged install might do.

[DKS]

Now all I need to do it alter that plan to work with under the benchwork and a 2" layer of pink foam. Something more akin to an elevator rather than a hinged install might do.

Yes, you'll need to get creative with "non-traditional" forms of subroadbed! Keep us informed as to your progress.

[sirenwerks]

I'm thinking this may be an excellent use of foamcore, since I can get sizable scraps for free.

[haasmarc]

I have used the shelf standard version on my layout with much success.  I will clarify that with when I push the button to activate the electro-magnet, the couplers fly apart when not coupled.  The couplers need to be completely deburred and lubricated with graphite to work reliably.  Not all couplers straight from MT will work without tweaking.  My Dad made a rotating counter to hook in a drill press in order to wrap the magnet wire and keep count.  I believe we got the design from an old Model Railroader, however, I have modifed the amount of wire and upped the voltage to 25 volts.  If none of this makes any sense, you take 2 two inch sections of deep shelf standard and glue them back to back.  Then I wrap the middle with thin styrene and the rest with electrical tape.  Then wrap the magnet wire around the core about 300 turns.  I put a diode between the two ends and hook up 25 volts thru a push button.  The diode helps to keep the push button from arcing.  One day I will update my website with a tutorial, but it hasn't happened yet.

Marc