Weathered Containers

[ednadolski]

Hi, here are a few HO containers that I recently finished weathering.  I wasn't trying to copy an exact prototype but was going for a more generic sort of effect.   I think in the first two pics, the rust came out a bit heavy, but on the OOCLs I'm trying to develop better control and achieve a more subtle effect.  (As Yoda would say: "Control! Control! You must learn control!") 

(Those last two are awaiting a final touch-up and a clear coat sealer.)

Comments/Criticisms welcomed.   

Ed

[GaryHinshaw]

These look fantastic Ed!  I think the rust work is superb, but I would tend to agree that it's a bit heavy in the first two shots; not because it isn't realistic, but because I don't see that many heavily weathered containers (not sure why that is though - maybe they don't have a very long average age).  The grime buildup on the bottom of the corrugations is great and the paint-over on the OOCL is very effective too.  Can you comment on your techniques?

Great stuff!
-Gary

[James Costello]

Lovely work Ed - the rust is awesome, as Gary said. Also like the work you've done on the P&O Nedlloyd logo too - very realistic.

[jbaakko]

I think they ALL look realistic!

[tom mann]

These look great!

[shamoo737]

Ed, the only containers that are heavily weather are reefers. I see them all the time around frozen food warehouses. Maybe you could  weather a reefer next.

[pfs]

Nice work!

[sirenwerks]

I hate to be the spoilsport here but, umm, HO? Are you slipping to the dark side, Ed?

[ednadolski]

Thanks everyone for you comments.  I've got a few more in the works where I am trying for a less pronounced rust effect.

On techniques, I generally start with a layer of clear flat or Dullcote, then a fade coat from the airbrush.  On these containers I used the Pelle Soeborg formula of a thinned mix of Model Master Light Gray and Sand; lately I'm using Gary's technique of the thinned M. Graham artists acrylics (zinc white and some of the oxides) for the fade.  The MMs work OK but being opaque they are easier to overdo.  For the grime layer I've used either artist acrylics or the water-soluble oils mixed with gouache & applied with a torn cosmetic sponge (as per the R. Divizio article in the recent OST).  General grime colors are Black, White, & Raw Umber.  For the rust, I use acrylics (Burnt Sienna & Raw Sienna) to get the orange/fresher rust color, and apply in a thinner layer with a fine sable brush.  As it dries I then go back over it with the brush to soften/streak the color, after wetting the brush with a window cleaner (I don't like Windex or Windshield Wash, so I use one of those eco-friendly ones).  I then apply some burnt umber for darker rust, using a small pointed 18/0 brush), followed by a final clear flat coat to seal.   On the P&O logo I just carefully applied a gray (Polyscale primer gray IIRC) with the 18/0 brush.

Bryan, I'm not sure about dark sides tho I've accumulated a fair amount of HO stuff over the years, and while I don't have a layout in HO  (yet -- VBG!) I figured it was time to try to do some modeling with the stuff that was sitting around.  I tend to run in cycles, and some things like sound and the recent Athearn Maxi-I's and spine cars are hard to resist    Anyways I've still got a fair amount of N scale going on, here are a few shots of some recent efforts:






As you can see, the rust in these is still a bit heavy in places too.   The stack cars are the Alan Curtis kits that I painted, decaled and weathered, and added Z scale couplers.

(One thing in N scale that I am looking forward to is the new McHenry coupler, I'm hoping it will operate more reliably than the accu-mates and eliminate the pogo effect of the MTs.)

[only1rcpro]

I have read and reread this post quite a few times and am still in awe.  I know beautiful work when I see it and this has made me rethink my whole approach to weathering.  I realise that I am heavy handed with the airbrush, but the subtlety of your work has shown me how grossly overworked some of my pieces are.  Please tell me how are you getting the latches on n scale containers painted without any mishaps?

Thanks..Rc

[shawnleon]

Since this post popped up again, and I am just starting in the weathering game, I love this! Wow. And it's all about personal perspective, but I really like the rust. Even the areas you think are too heavy. Can't wait to read how you achieved the result since RC already asked. 

[Smike]

Extremely impressive!

If you think the rust treatment is too much, just look in any Intermodal yard, as you will see a few of these set aside out of service, or being used for other purposes.

[ednadolski]

Please tell me how are you getting the latches on n scale containers painted without any mishaps?

RC, I'm sorry but I'm not sure which N-scale latches you mean?   The containers in the first post are actually HO scale, and the OOCL in the last pic has just factory paint on the door latches.   However one technique that might be worth a try would be some of those fine-tipped, opaque paint or gel pens from an art supply store, in a silver or medium gray color.

BTW if you guys want to see some really masterful rust streaks, check out Jeremy's amazing IATR boxcar:

http://therailwire.net/forum/index.php/topic,18441.0.html

Jeremy works with traditional artist's tube oil paints and mineral spirits, but I'm trying with using some of the newfangled water-mixable oil paints and Micro-Sol.  They generally have similar properties and I think it should be possible to get similar results.  Some folks use artists acrylic paints but I find they dry too fast for me to work.   It does take some practice to develop control, but the results are well worth the effort IMHO.

Ed

[GaryHinshaw]

I don't mean to steal this thread, but I tried using pens and paints for N scale container latches in the past but could never get enough control of the process (too much bleeding and such).  I have since settled on decal stripes and have been very happy with the results.  Here is one example showing a before and after comparison:



It really adds a lot to the look of a container.  The stripe sizes I used are given here:

http://therailwire.net/forum/index.php/topic,16573.msg166153.html#msg166153

Hope this helps,
Gary

[shawnleon]

BTW if you guys want to see some really masterful rust streaks, check out Jeremy's amazing IATR boxcar:

Ed, thanks for sharing that thread. I am amazed! For my next weathering lesson I need to review rust streaks with paint.

Shawn