NKP SD9 - Finished at Last

[SAH]

A NKP SD9 pulls a carload of DEtroit bound tires from Akron off the AC&Y and onto NKP's Wheeling District . . . . .



Geez it took a long time to finish this puppy!!!!!  Finally got serious about it over the last 6 weeks.  I learned (and re-learned) a lot.  I think I might have over done the weathering a bit.  Live and learn.  Next project will be something I can finish in less than 18 mons.   ;D

Steve

[Chris333]

Looks great!

[tom mann]

Just put a black wash on that and you should be fine.

Looks really nice.  Handrails make a huge difference.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Agreed (wit Tom). Great to see it done! Very nice work.

[sd80mac]

Hi Steve,

I know exactly what you mean, but no matter how long you took, it was well worth the wait! Great job! if you don't mind, could you explain your resolution to folding over and soldering the GMM stanchions?

Donnell

[Sokramiketes]

Nice.  Just in time for Naperville!

[seusscaboose]

love to see the NKP !!!

[SAH]

Hi Steve,

I know exactly what you mean, but no matter how long you took, it was well worth the wait! Great job! if you don't mind, could you explain your resolution to folding over and soldering the GMM stanchions?

Donnell

Thanks guyz.  Next week I'll post some close-ups and write about what worked and what didn't.  I got some great tips from you folks when I started the original thread.  It has been years since I detailed a loco.  It's a lot easier now with all the great detail parts available, but technique (and patience) is still important.  The later has improved - Not so with the former.

Steve

[Black Diamond]

Looks nice, I really like the fuel spill for some reason.

[Caleb Austin]

Looks really nice man, it looks really "heavy", like its a bigger scale. Layout looks cool too!
 

[SAH]

A bit longer than the week I promised but . . . .

Here’s the side with stanchion tabs rolled over the handrail.  Very uniform, if a bit large.  A touch of CA bonds the tab to the handrail. In the NKP SD9 topic I described how I threaded the stanchions over the wire like a necklace and then tried to insert the bottom stanchion pin into the side sill.  Got it done, but never again. 



One thing I hit upon by accident was a different method of terminating the handrails on the cab side.  During a soldering experiment the handrail got hot enough to melt its way into the cab side.  So, rather than drilling a hole to accept the bent handrail end I covered the handrail with .01” x .01” styrene.  I think the effect works.  I can get by with this method because the frame, body and cab are all one piece after I glued them together.



The other side’s stanchions are soldered using a resistance solder unit.    My first few attempts were pretty rough and required lots of clean up.  The one on the short end was my last and best.  Tough to see in this photo.  I let some of the solder run down the stanchion but practice will eliminate that flaw in technique.  For small stanchion / handrail joints soldering is the way to get it done.  Practice and some better conduction path tools will make this the method of choice I’m sure.

I'm pleased to report she's a great puller too.  Walks away with 25 cars no problem.

Shout out any questions and I’ll do what I can to explain what I did and why.

Steve

[SAH]

Here's a photo of the short hood front.  At the end of the post is the in progress shot just before the trip to the paint shop.  The nose striping and details were then added and finally the stanchions and handrails for the end platform.  A bit more risky to do it this way but it allows unrestricted access for decal application and detail addition.  The bell bracket is scratched from styrene.  It's too low but I'm not doing it over.  If I do make another run at something it will be the numberboards, done using Mr. Yourstone's technique.  You can also see the short hood stanchion / handrail solder joint better in this photo.  A good small joint but I let the solder run down the stanchion.  Now that I know it can be done I'll work at making it better next time.

Steve

[ednadolski]

Hi Steve, the handrails look great!   What did you use for the safety chain?

I don't fold the GMM stanchions, instead I use the longer ones from the GMM fret and trim with flush cutters after soldering.  For soldering I use a tiny bit of PBL non-lead paste solder, mixed with SuperSafe brand flux to about the consistency of acrylic or oil paint from a tube, and applied with a toothpick.  One quick touch with a clean iron is all it takes (hiss! done! )  I also lay small paper towel strips at the base of the stanchions and wet them with a few drops of water, to act as a heat sink & keep the plastic from melting.

Ed

[SAH]

I use 0.005" copper wire for the safety chain Ed.  Cut parallel lengths and twist them into a braid.  Form a loop. cut to length and CA into place.  Very quick and easy.  Thanks for the solder paste / flux tip.  That should solve my problem - the flux ran away and the solder followed it.   

Steve

Hi Steve, the handrails look great!   What did you use for the safety chain?

I don't fold the GMM stanchions, instead I use the longer ones from the GMM fret and trim with flush cutters after soldering.  For soldering I use a tiny bit of PBL non-lead paste solder, mixed with SuperSafe brand flux to about the consistency of acrylic or oil paint from a tube, and applied with a toothpick.  One quick touch with a clean iron is all it takes (hiss! done! )  I also lay small paper towel strips at the base of the stanchions and wet them with a few drops of water, to act as a heat sink & keep the plastic from melting.

Ed