Kato E8 shell on LL chassis? Insane?

[Mark5]

I picked up an undec LL E8 really cheap a while ago. But the nose is ... wrong.

I'm thinking about picking up a Kato E8 shell and plopping it on. The shell would cost more than I paid for the LL unit.

Anyone here done it?

[davefoxx]

I would bet that most people who are trying to fit Kato and Life-Like E8 parts together would be doing the opposite of you and trying to put a LL shell on the Kato frame to get a really smooth running locomotive with a DCC-ready frame.  However, either way, I don't believe that it is a simple fit.  I would love for someone to prove me wrong, because I have a C&O LL unit that I would love to see run as smooth as those Kato units.

Dave Foxx
Rising Sun, Maryland

[Chris333]

I'm sure the Kato run well, but I have a few older LL E8's that run great.

[Mark5]

I'm sure the Kato run well, but I have a few older LL E8's that run great.

Yeah, the LL E8s run great! (I also have a Kato E8).

[David Leonard]

I've not done this conversion on a permanent basis, but I do have both units, so I made a quick switch (Kato shell on LL plastic mechanism) with this result:



The Kato shell and mechanism are wider that their LL equivalents (which are more to scale) so the obverse switch (LL shell on Kato mech) doesn't work very well. Since the Kato shell is wider, it's a very loose fit on the LL mechanism, but that's better than the other way around. You can see in the photo how the rear end of the shell came up a bit as I put the thing on the track. It will go down properly, but by no means snugly.

Another consideration is the skirting above the fuel tank. On the LL it's part of the body shell, on the Kato it's part of the plastic fuel tank. I'd suggest getting a Kato fuel tank piece also, but this is not my call.

In short, it's possible, but you'll want to make a tighter fit.

EDIT: I forgot that the LL fuel tank is cast in metal. You would have to hack away at it, if you want to use the Kato plastic fuel tank.

[jmlaboda]

"EDIT: I forgot that the LL fuel tank is cast in metal. You would have to hack away at it, if you want to use the Kato plastic fuel tank."

Yah, that fuel tank looks hideous.  A motor tool should make such work a lot easier but would it really be worth it.

While on the subject... anyone try a LL or Kato chassis under a PCM shell???

[Mark5]

Thanks David! Looks feasible. Only obstacle is that $30 for the Kato shell.

[ryourstone]

What are you going to do with the LL shell? I'm looking for two of these - That wrong nose is a good starting point for Baldwin cab units.

[Mark5]

What are you going to do with the LL shell? I'm looking for two of these - That wrong nose is a good starting point for Baldwin cab units.

Well, it depends on which approach I take. I am gonna look at splicing a Bachmann F7 nose onto the LL E8 shell (I'd have to alter the number boards obviously). If the two are not compatible, or I deem it not worthy, then I'll just get the Kato shell - in this case the E8 shell would be surplus. I will try to make a quick assessment on the F7 shell concept in the next few days.

[Mark5]

I have concluded that the Bachmann Plus/Spectrum F7 nose would probably splice onto the LL E8. However, then I realized that the Bmann F7 only came in single headlight (IIRC). Being lazy this pushed this idea over the line of what I'm willing to do.

So that leaves the Kato shell onto the LL mechanism. This (as shown above) can be made to work. But, since hobby shops seem unwilling to order shells these days, I'd have to order direct from Kato so the cost would be $25 +$5 for shipping plus whatever fuel tank parts I'd need. This is way more than I paid for the LL E8.

So, since I was going to make an N&W E8 out of this (ex Wabash), and these things never even ran on the N&W "proper", I think I'll shelve this project and declare the E8 surplus.

Rich, make me an offer! ;D

[ryourstone]

PM sent

[Mark5]

Before I unload this, this pic is to illustrate the problems with the LL nose (vs Kato):

[sizemore]

Ive done the switheroo -Kato shell LL chassis. I had an abundance of chassis from a certain place on...1600 Union Ave to be exact. I had a few shells left over from a custom painting gig and the rest was history. I took three peices of 3/16" square grey ABS plastic with round centers tapped them for 2-56 *1/4" (?). I mounted one in the nose (behind the door), one in each corner of the rear, depth would have been the thickness of the LL chassis. Countersunk the holes in the frame so the screws mount flush. Without weight I test fit the chassis. Then used a Mill File to remove the unneeded material to clear my new mounts. Clean and proper.

Yeah slightly a witch to take apart but the clean engineering is worth it. Now I have an E8A and B that match the rest of the E's in the B&O/C&O Poolpower.

HTH,
T