manual turnout control

[asciibaron]

i like manual turnout control.  i like that it's cheap and there's very little to troubleshoot if it shoudl fail.  in the HO world, i used "n scale" ground throws.  i was considering them until this weekend when i placed one on the layout and saw how obscenely massive they are next to a locomotive. 

i am considering using slide switches with an armature - i don't use powered frogs, but i just might if i'm putting in sliders. 

any other cheap manual systems out there.  i saw the article involving the tubes within tubes - seems rather expensive.  not into the blue under layout thingys either - that stuff adds up.  i like low cost home made type of solutions.

am i SOL?

-steve

[Ed Kapuscinski]

No, you're not SOL: http://conrail1285.com/news.asp?storyid=31

[wm3798]

I've used Ed's method, and I've also used the micro slide switch method.  There's also a few tortoises buried beneath the soil here and there.

Frankly, the Caboose jobbies are virtually fail safe, and once you scenic around them and weather them in, they don't look half as bad as when raw.  They're still pretty big, but look at those big twinkies at the end of your hand, and you'll see they will serve you just fine.

Lee

[Chris333]

I've made about 80 of these so far and love em:

[RS-27]

The slide switch is cheaper, but I will use the CI ground throws remotely rodded to the edge of the benchwork just because it feels more prototype.

Bob in IDaho

[asciibaron]

i have used the CI ground throws - i robbed my HO layout when i built my N-Trak module.  with the code 55, the CI ground throws, even when sunken, have a heavy look.  i seem to remember seeing a system that used a bent piece of wire with one end glued down into the sub road bed and the other end hooked into the points.

-steve

[Chris333]

That little bent wire trick works. Way back when I did a few, you may need to bend a few wires to get it just right. Keep the hook into the throw bar short and the other make like 1" long, just insert it thru a close-by tie without any glue.

[Chris333]

I just had to make one real quick (to see if I still got the touch)
Notice 2 holes drilled, the 1 hole can be on either side of the throw bar:

I just sat this turnout down on foam and stuck the long end down it the foam. If it was harder like wood, I'd just drill the hole deeper.


You can use thinner wire, I just grabbed something quick. It snaps back-n-forth just like a Micro Engineering or Peco turnout. Total cost?  .003 cents

[Mark5]

last layout I had (late 1970s!!!!) I used choke cables. at the turnout I used K&S brass tubes throught the roadbed, and a wire through it bent on top and bottom, with the top end going into the points (similar to above) and with a crude contact system below to provide proper juice to the frog etc.

much better options available today - great stuff above.

[Mark5]

I just had to make one real quick (to see if I still got the touch)
Notice 2 holes drilled, the 1 hole can be on either side of the throw bar:

I was looking at my Atlas C55 turnouts and getting nervous. My brass thingy between the points on my hand laid turnouts was much sturdier, and that plastic looks so flimsy. Since my layout is still in benchwork stage (work suspended at the moment) I've not decided exactly how I will do the C55 turnouts, but I certainly prefer the "between the rails" method for the under layout control.

Has this proven durable in use?

[Chris333]

Has this proven durable in use?

I can't really say. The last time I did it I was using C80 track. Since then I have been making the other type I listed at the top, with a switch to power the frog.  Don't forget you can drill a smaller hole and use smaller wire.

[Mark5]

Thanks for the feedback. I may need to lay a test turnout.

[asciibaron]

I just had to make one real quick (to see if I still got the touch)
Notice 2 holes drilled, the 1 hole can be on either side of the throw bar

that's the ticket - right there.

-steve

[wcfn100]

"Has this proven durable in use?"

If you operate the turnout by putting your finger between points they will loosen over time and need to be replaced.  Even Peco turnouts will do this eventually.  If you use the over center spring method shown, you should think about putting something on the end of the throwbar for activation.


Jason

[Mark5]

"Has this proven durable in use?"

If you operate the turnout by putting your finger between points they will loosen over time and need to be replaced.  Even Peco turnouts will do this eventually.  If you use the over center spring method shown, you should think about putting something on the end of the throwbar for activation.


Jason

I had no durability issues with my handlaid C40 turnouts using the method I described above.

That said, what do you mean by "something" and what do you mean by "activation"? Are you suggesting soldering in something? Thanks!