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For the nervous folks (meaning me) who have never done this -- Is making a bunch of turnouts to build inventory for a future layout practical? If so, what's a good way to test them? What's a good way to store them?Is it relatively easy to make minor modifications to at installation time (e.g. shorten the diverging route a little)?and ....What about Naomi?
For the nervous folks (meaning me) who have never done this -- Is making a bunch of turnouts to build inventory for a future layout practical? If so, what's a good way to test them? What's a good way to store them?Is it relatively easy to make minor modifications to at installation time (e.g. shorten the diverging route a little)?
Late to the party, but here's my experience.1. I got a Fast Tracks #6 jig, after reading Bob's earlier posts about how Atlas #7's really aren't #7's. The #6's are perfect for just about everything on my layout - but I don't have mainline crossovers. I've run everything from an Atlas S-2 switcher to an Athearn Big Boy over them with absolutely no problems (the Big Boy does NOT like Atlas #5's at all, which I finally just ripped out and replaced with the FT #6's.2. Bob's second observation is also correct: the Fast Track jig is great for teaching you turnout construction technique. After you've done a dozen on an FT jig, you'll be able to use paper templates for anything else. So if you're going to buy a jig, buy the one for the turnout # you will use the most. Then do everything else off templates.3. You can absolutely make a bunch at the bench and store them. I've been stockpiling #6's for an eventual layout expansion. The critical thing is to check clearances constantly with an NMRA gauge. For testing, I have a 8" x 4' piece of plywood with 3 pieces of Atlas Code 55 flex track and an "empty" spot for the turnout. To test, I drop the completed turnout in the empty spot, slip on the rail joiners, and power it up from a set of jumper wires with alligator clips hooked to my layout. I keep the point rails in place by just using a brad stuck in the plywood to push the throwbar one way or the other. If it works fine, I put it in storage.4. While I use paper templates for anything other than #6's, I still use the FT Stock Aid tool and the Point Form tool for all turnouts I make. I've found that I can use a #6 point form tool to make frog points for everything from a #4 to a #8 by varying how much rail sticks out for filing. For a #10, I'd probably use it too, but then I might need to do some additional filing to get the point angle correct. I find using those two tools much easier than using a small bench grinder to accomplish the same task, though an experienced machinist probably would make their own jig to use with a grinder and make dozens of frog points at once. I don't have that skill.5. I like to solder a wire to power the frog while I've still got the turnout on the bench. I use a 12" length of 28-gauge wire, which is just fine for this purpose. Remember that your frog is never going to carry more amperage than what is necessary to run one engine (and usually not even that, since some other powered wheel will be available outside the frog, so you'll be dividing the power requirements) so no need to worry about "too small" a wire gauge for this. While you could attach the wire after the turnout is in place, I find it easier to do on the bench, and then the turnout is completely ready to go for the layout when the time comes.John C.
I did the reverse, got the #8 double crossover fixture, and the #8 point form and stock aid fixtures. I work from paper templates now, or draw my own, but use various aspects of the fixtures to shorten build time regardless of the turnout number.