Low-Profile Wheels for Walthers/Life-Like GP38-2?

[MetroRedLine]

I was unaware of the fact that any of the Chinese made Atlas wheelsets in the low-friction (Kato clone) trucks had deep flanges.

They all were, until the around the late 2000s decade. Maybe around 2009-2011 it went low profile exclusively.

[garethashenden]

Try Kato part# 932090. You can find it under the DCC ready F7 parts, but it fits multiple models. You'll get 6 axles for $8. Sometimes this is available from other vendors, but its showing out of stock at MBK at the moment. Might need a little tweaking to get the axle length right, but they're the best wheels around.

[peteski]

Try Kato part# 932090. You can find it under the DCC ready F7 parts, but it fits multiple models. You'll get 6 axles for $8. Sometimes this is available from other vendors, but its showing out of stock at MBK at the moment. Might need a little tweaking to get the axle length right, but they're the best wheels around.

Those wheels are really good and nice looking. I tried them in my LL SW1200 and they were too tight unless I pushed the half-axles in.

I have box full of Atlas wheelset that I replaced with Kato 932090s.  I can send you some. Not sure if those have the flanges that will work with Atlass c55 track.

[MetroRedLine]

Try Kato part# 932090. You can find it under the DCC ready F7 parts, but it fits multiple models. You'll get 6 axles for $8. Sometimes this is available from other vendors, but its showing out of stock at MBK at the moment. Might need a little tweaking to get the axle length right, but they're the best wheels around.

I have some spare wheels from a broken Kato SD70ACe truck. Would they work too?

[peteski]

I have some spare wheels from a broken Kato SD70ACe truck. Would they work too?

Is that one of the models with the fine pitch gears centered on the axle?  If not, and it is the one with off-center gear then it would fit, but the axle are too long (as I mentioned earlier). 

[nscaler711]

Atlas trucks from their GP38s are a direct fit. I have done this on several LL/Walther's GP38s. I'll send you a message with pictures if you like.

[MetroRedLine]

Atlas trucks from their GP38s are a direct fit. I have done this on several LL/Walther's GP38s. I'll send you a message with pictures if you like.

I have an Atlas GP-40, they're the same Blomberg B trucks, correct? I'll try to put those trucks on and see.

[randgust]

Wow, so I consider myself a relatively incompetent machinist with limited tools, and I'm still regularly turning split-axle wheels in a dremel to reduce flange depth.   My bugaboo is the Tomytec chassis, those are all equipped with pizza cutters, about half my customers have to have them reduced on custom builds.

So, what you need to do it right is a decent micrometer, digital or old-school.  Mine's an industrial-grade old-school.   And an approach.   Take you target flange profile - a wheel that works on your turnouts - and take two measurements - one at the tread right in front of the flange (wheel diameter) and one at the flange overall (flange depth x 2).   Subtract and divide by two, that's your flange depth.

Now measure your target wheel, wheel diameter at back of tread.   Add the target new flange depth X 2.  That's your target dimension over the flange.   So now just start filing and rechecking until you hit that target number, touch up the inside and outside edges smooth, and you're done.  You only have to do that calculation once, and then it's as fast as you can change wheels out of the chuck.  I've got it down to about 3 minutes a wheel.   I've even set up an excel spreadsheet to make sure I do the math right.

So you can spend money and time on wheels and the search, or get a decent tool to do it.   And even if you do get replacement wheels, take the old ones and learn the technique.   If you ruin a set, well, that's training expense.    This works on any split-axle wheel approach.  But without a decent micrometer, a little too hit-and-miss.

[craigolio1]

Wow, so I consider myself a relatively incompetent machinist with limited tools, and I'm still regularly turning split-axle wheels in a dremel to reduce flange depth.   My bugaboo is the Tomytec chassis, those are all equipped with pizza cutters, about half my customers have to have them reduced on custom builds.

So, what you need to do it right is a decent micrometer, digital or old-school.  Mine's an industrial-grade old-school.   And an approach.   Take you target flange profile - a wheel that works on your turnouts - and take two measurements - one at the tread right in front of the flange (wheel diameter) and one at the flange overall (flange depth x 2).   Subtract and divide by two, that's your flange depth.

Now measure your target wheel, wheel diameter at back of tread.   Add the target new flange depth X 2.  That's your target dimension over the flange.   So now just start filing and rechecking until you hit that target number, touch up the inside and outside edges smooth, and you're done.  You only have to do that calculation once, and then it's as fast as you can change wheels out of the chuck.  I've got it down to about 3 minutes a wheel.   I've even set up an excel spreadsheet to make sure I do the math right.

So you can spend money and time on wheels and the search, or get a decent tool to do it.   And even if you do get replacement wheels, take the old ones and learn the technique.   If you ruin a set, well, that's training expense.    This works on any split-axle wheel approach.  But without a decent micrometer, a little too hit-and-miss.

What kind of file is best for this?

Craig.

[randgust]

I've got a set of old Maxons that I've had for decades, the favorite is a flat one with a rounded back that tapers to a point, and really good on metal.  If I had to replace them, I'd probably go with something like this:

https://www.micromark.com/10-piece-Diamond-Needle-File-Set-Medium-Grit

Like any good file, if you start working it and it doesn't make dust, either clean it or replace it.   I even used my set to take the center flanges off my Hallmark 4-8-4 when the motor alone was powering the wheels.

[gi-depp]

I put the Koto wheels in my LL GP60 (left ones).
I flattened the tip a little with a file.
It runs well since two years.