ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin LCD UV-Curing Resin

[bbussey]

All,

The standard resin, whether AnyCubic or Elegoo or others, are very brittle after curing. This Elegoo resin cures with the characteristics of ABS plastic. That seems to me to be more appropriate for N scale rolling stock and items that will be handled regularly. I ordered a bottle to try it. Does anyone have experience with it?

[C855B]

I haven't tried the Elegoo ABS-like resin, but I have used the Siraya Fast ABS-like. Frankly, I was disappointed, as it was still quite brittle.

A couple of weeks ago I gave the Anycubic "Flexible Tough" a try, specifically for my rail joiner project. It actually does behave like a conventional ABS plastic. A variable to consider, however, is I am using the clear resin. Somebody said something here about darker colors being more brittle, so having no pigment (filler, maybe?) might also be factor in my success with it.

[bbussey]

Hopefully the Elegoo yields better results. I will report back next week.

[Chris333]

I used regular Elegoo grey resin. Had no problems with it, but I really couldn't tell the difference between it and Anycubic. I was using Anycubic grey, but recently bought a bunch of Anycubic black resin. It seems people with other brand printers end up using Anycubic resin.

Only ever tried Anycubic and Elegoo, nothing else. Water wash resin was great to clean up, but it seems soft and warped very easy so I gave up on it.

And you'll find most of the people with printers are making wargame characters with them and really don't understand model railroading struggles.

[GaryHinshaw]

I tried the Elegoo ABS-like and wasn't able to get very good results with it, but I admit that I didn't try very hard.   I started by printing the Anycubic test block, but none of the 8 settings gave as crisp a print as I get with the Basic resin.  So I shelved that bottle.

RE brittleness: I'm getting decent results with the Basic resin by curing it very lightly.  For the small parts I tend print, I put them in a jar of water and cure them for 1 minute.  For things like stirrups that are printed onto the part, I find the results are similar to styrene: not super fragile, but also not indestructible.  I expect to have to replace some of these free standing details from time to time, but at least I have and endless supply of parts now.  That gives me peace of mind.

[Chris333]

I have read a few times about curing in water, but also how the parts will absorb water and grow. So if you cure them in the water will they cure larger? I blow dry all my stuff before curing.

[GaryHinshaw]

Hmm, if they do grow, it is by an imperceptible amount, and I am trying to maintain pretty tight tolerances on things like alignment pins.   I also blow dry parts before and after curing.

One thing I noticed with the Basic grey resin is that it would turn brownish if I cured it in air, but it does not do so in water.  Also, the parts that did turn brownish were very brittle.

[Chris333]

lol well I've never had prints change color    I have drawers full of old prints that are still original color.

Or are we talking about ABS resin? I've only used regular resin.

I
.5 let parts hang at 90 degrees on the build plate over the vat till there is no longer resin dripping off.
1. wash parts in dirty alcohol, scrubbing with a chip brush, then blow it dry.
2. wash parts in clean alcohol, scrubbing with a chip brush, then blow dry.
3. quick wash in a pail of Simple Green, just whish it around, rinse off with water, then blow it dry.

I may remove supports in between the above steps or leave them till after curing. Depends what the part is.

[Sokramiketes]

lol well I've never had prints change color    I have drawers full of old prints that are still original color.

I noticed some UV burning on some parts I cured outside early on.  It really did look like they were sunburnt, slightly browned.  This was Elegoo regular gray resin.