ESU micro select direct 73100 into Atlas Dash 8-40CW & Dash 8-40C

[Sharky_McSharknose]

Before I start, I want to mention that I have both the standard cab and wide cab Dash 8-40C models. Although the pictures show only the Dash 8-40CW, the same steps apply to both models. The good thing about this installation is there is no modification required to the shell or chassis. There are a few tips I want to share to make the install work best.



I reused the little bronze clips that came with the light board to hold the decoder in place since the slots for the light board don't hold it tightly enough. I clipped the tines back a tiny bit on the right (engineer's side) clip since they were a little close to a chip on the board. The decoder only engages the front slots so I did not use the rear clips.

I used a Soberton SP-1208 12mmx8mm speaker in an enclosure I made from .02in thick styrene strip. The total height shouldn’t exceed about 6.75mm; any taller and the speaker enclosure will push the radiator piece off. If you want to, you can shave down the right side of the frame a bit so it is level with the left side for a little extra depth. However, I think the sound volume is fine without modding the frame. In fact, I had to turn it down because I was getting some bad distortion!



The rear headlight is a 0402 warm white LED on magnet wire I purchased from a now-closed eBay store. I located the speaker as close to the rear lens so I could get maximum brightness from the LED. There is about 1.7mm of space between the rear lens and the speaker if the enclosure is pushed all the way towards the decoder. If you need additional space for the LED or keep-alive caps you'll need to trim the rear lens. This picture gives an idea of the amount of space to work with.



I reused the ditch light board on the CW. The positive wires are red and orange, the negative wires are black and blue. I extended the wires with what I had on hand to reach the AUX3 (black), AUX4 (blue), and common positive (red and orange) pads on the underside of the decoder. I spliced in 560-ohm SMD resistors in the joins where I extended the red and orange wires, then covered the joints on each of the four wires with shrink tubing. The shrink tubing needs to be laid side-by-side atop the decoder, then held in place with Kapton tape.

Test bench video to follow soon!

[Sharky_McSharknose]

Took me much longer than I expected, but the video is finally up!

[tehachapifan]

Nice install! I see (hear) that you selected the B39-E file, which is a really throaty and great sounding file. It blows their other (Select) files for these locos away by a mile, IMHO. I also used that file in my dash-8 and 9 installs. Only complaint on this file is a minor glitch where, if you hit F8 during a ramp up or down of the automatic low/high idle, the sound cuts-off abruptly rather than playing the shut-down sequence.

[conrad]

Very, very nice.  I'm going to take a look at my Kato Dash 8's.

Would the Kapton tape over the speaker have anything to do with distortion at high volume?

Conrad

[tehachapifan]

Yeah, keep an eye (ear) out for any distortion that occurs at higher volumes. Could lead to a irreversible decoder failure if unchecked. All of my volumes are set (often much) lower than the default settings. Some more than others depending on the rating of the speaker.

Also, I've had a sort of crackling distortion occur in a couple of my Atlas 8-40BW installs with the speaker located in the radiator section like on yours. Turned out that the separate top piece for the grill detail was vibrating. Some ACC along the seams did the trick.

[Sharky_McSharknose]

Very, very nice.  I'm going to take a look at my Kato Dash 8's.

Would the Kapton tape over the speaker have anything to do with distortion at high volume?

Do you mean the Kato Dash 9s? Check the LokSound Installation Threads and Techniques List, installation in those will be quite different to the Atlas Dash 8s.

I think the distortion has more to do with what tehachapifan had to say.

Nice install! I see (hear) that you selected the B39-E file, which is a really throaty and great sounding file. It blows their other (Select) files for these locos away by a mile, IMHO. I also used that file in my dash-8 and 9 installs. Only complaint on this file is a minor glitch where, if you hit F8 during a ramp up or down of the automatic low/high idle, the sound cuts-off abruptly rather than playing the shut-down sequence.

Yep. I didn't like the way the Dash 9 file sounds at idle, and the AC4400CW file has a weird whining noise at higher notches. I don't know if its prototypical to the AC4400 or a glitch, but it's not pleasant or prototypical to the Dash 8 in either case.

The C39-8 sound file is also nice & it has an actual Conrail RS-3L horn, but no electric compressor. Big whoop. (rimshot)

[conrad]

Do you mean the Kato Dash 9s? Check the LokSound Installation Threads and Techniques List, installation in those will be quite different to the Atlas Dash 8s.

Yes, a typo, GE C44-9W.  I'll check thread. Thanks

Conrad