Weekend Update 6/9/19

[craigolio1]

I’m calling the HH660 done.
I’ll try to post a video demonstrating the running characteristics and how it sounds over the weekend.

(Attachment Link)

Jim

Very nice.

[Cajonpassfan]

I’m calling the HH660 done.
I’ll try to post a video demonstrating the running characteristics and how it sounds over the weekend.

Edit: A big thanks to @Chris333 for the help an inspiration!
Jim

 
Otto

[ednadolski]

It's my understanding that Atlas bought the dies to the Red Caboose line, so if you were to purchase an Atlas O scale Geep today, the body would be of Red Caboose lineage.

It would be far more an Atlas Geep than RC.  Atlas modified the RC body dies to suit their 3-rail criteria.   They do not use the RC parts for the frame/walkway, and instead use their own die-cast metal part which is likewise designed for 3-rail (and the 2-motor 'China drive' mechanism).  Other parts such as the fuel and air tanks, and stanchions/handrails are Atlas parts, not the finely scaled and detailed RC delrin parts.

Ed

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Pretty Cool layout at Bearizona in Williams. BTW Ed is talking me into modeling the GCRW.

Doooooo it!

I’m calling the HH660 done.
I’ll try to post a video demonstrating the running characteristics and how it sounds over the weekend.

Shut the front door. That's hot.

[strummer]

It would be far more an Atlas Geep than RC.  Atlas modified the RC body dies to suit their 3-rail criteria.   They do not use the RC parts for the frame/walkway, and instead use their own die-cast metal part which is likewise designed for 3-rail (and the 2-motor 'China drive' mechanism).  Other parts such as the fuel and air tanks, and stanchions/handrails are Atlas parts, not the finely scaled and detailed RC delrin parts.

Ed

I see, and get the need for those changes, but it's too bad. The RC Geeep was a nice model...particularly after you got done with it!

Mark in Oregon

[Sharky_McSharknose]

Over the past couple of Thursdays, I took classes on how to use a Bridgeport manual milling machine at the Artisan's Asylum in Somerville, MA. The Artisan's Asylum is a "makerspace" with all sorts of cool stuff like a bicycle repair shop, ventilated paint booth, woodworking and metal shops, fabric shop, 3D printers and CNC milling machines, and so on. 

https://artisansasylum.com/

What does that have to do with model trains? I'm learning milling so I can do DCC installations in pre-DCC N scale locos that need more frame cutting that what I can do with a Dremel. The cool thing about the Artisan's Asylum is once I'm a member, I will have 24/7 access, which is great considering my afternoon work schedule. I would also like to learn some woodworking skills, which will be helpful when I'm ready to build a permanent layout, and some other skills like MIG and TIG welding.

I forgot to take a picture, but the motor on one of the Bridgeports is a Fairbanks-Morse model. A neat coincidence since one of the engine models I want to modify is the Life-Like FM Erie Built.

[Bigbopper299]

This is located about 20 minutes from my house.  They do some really nice work out there.  Have a lot of local different pieces they have restored.

http://saskrailmuseum.org/index.php/our-collection/rolling-stock/locomotives/

http://saskrailmuseum.org/index.php/our-collection/rolling-stock/rolling-stock/

http://www.railpictures.ca/upload/ge-23t-box-cab-with-sask-power-ex-canadian-utilities-power-generation-car-are-on-display-at-the-saskatchewan-railway-museum

http://hammelltime.blogspot.com/2011/08/

[k27463]

The decoder is already remapped for the Gyra Light, but I have logistics such as wiring through the detailed cab.  As it stands now, the shell can be pulled and the LEDs remain attached to the frame with nothing attached to the shell.

Dave,

I just did some high headlights in an Athearn loco the other day -- if you can tolerate one LED in the shell, it's not too bad to twist the LED wires and thread them through the gyralight and through the hole in the back of the cab -without- disassembly of the cab.  The Athearn cabs really aren't designed to come off the shell...

[davefoxx]

Dave,

I just did some high headlights in an Athearn loco the other day -- if you can tolerate one LED in the shell, it's not too bad to twist the LED wires and thread them through the gyralight and through the hole in the back of the cab -without- disassembly of the cab.  The Athearn cabs really aren't designed to come off the shell...

@k27463,

I hemmed and hawed over what to do with that cab, because it was obvious that it was glued together and not coming apart easily.  So, in trying to find a way to mount the LED above the cab without too much light spilling into the cab, I ended up punching a hole through the back of the detailed interior of the cab and fitting a piece of styrene tubing through the top of the cab that was big enough for the LED to slide inside.  The tubing cannot be seen from normal viewing angles, as it is tucked up against the cab roof.  I had to do some whittling of the tubing to expose enough light for the top “bulb” of the housing to light.

I'm so satisfied with the results that I am now looking at my Atlas GP40-2s that will require some different ingenuity to get the same effect.  Oh, and because I'm gaining more confidence at this, I bought an NOS Athearn HO scale SD50 and am going to attempt the same thing, i.e, adding ESU decoder/sound and LED lights (it will lack the Gyralight, though, to match the prototype).  This time, I was smart, and I bought a locomotive without a DCC decoder.  No need to pay for electronics that will end up in the trash can!

DFF