Loksound 73100 install in a Kato Dash 9

[GM50 4164]

Here is a recent install I've been working on of a Kato dash 9. This is my first to utilize ditch lights and their functioning. Also built a custom speaker enclosure and added 440 of capacitance to help with electrical drop outs!

[tehachapifan]

Nice install!

[Steveruger45]

Yes, nice install.  I’m guessing you had to modify the shell in way of the exhaust stack to get the shell to sit down fully.
I did one of these sans decoder operated ditchlights with a 73800 decoder.  I have another to do yet as well.
Could you give us all a bit of a write up on how you did it all and perhaps post a video of it operating?
Thanks

[GM50 4164]

Yes, nice install.  I’m guessing you had to modify the shell in way of the exhaust stack to get the shell to sit down fully.
I did one of these sans decoder operated ditchlights with a 73800 decoder.  I have another to do yet as well.
Could you give us all a bit of a write up on how you did it all and perhaps post a video of it operating?
Thanks

Thank you guys. Yes Steve, I did have to remove some of the inside roof of the shell around the exhaust stack to make room for the micro controller and flash memory chipsets. I first applied some gel CA to the inside of the shell around where the exhaust stack attached to the top of the roof. Once this had dried, I took a small grinding bit in my dremel and thinned the inside shell around the exhaust stack and surrounding area. I made sure to remove a little at a time and checked my progress frequently. You do not want to go to far! I also removed the dynamic brake fan assembly and removed some of the thickness from the plastic piece that slide into place directly behind the exhaust stack. For the frame itself, I removed a little around where the board slid into place for the frame contacts, then some of the larger part of the frame at a angle to allow the board to slide in easily. I attached the motor contacts like others have here already and added some kapton tape around the frame close to where the motor contacts would be. Lastly, I removed a little bit of the frame directly below the board AUX 3,4 soldering tabs while also allowing room for the negative contact for the caps.  I built a enclosure around a 9x16 speaker and added to 220uf caps at the very end of the frame. The small LEDs I used for the ditchlights were to blue to my liking and didn't match the headlight very well so I took a yellow sharpie and added some yellow tint to them. The light pipe for the ditchlights was then split in to 2 separate pieces. I used small pieces of heat shrink tubing to hold the led in place against the end of the light pipe. Some Walthers Goo was added to the wired end of the heat shrink to keep the LEDs from possibly pulling out.The heats shrink is snug against the light pipes but loose enough to comfortably pull away from the pipes in order to remove the sill from the chassis.

Here is a short clip of the locomotive in action on my other project!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="

frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[Steveruger45]

Looks and sounds great.
I’m gonna have to have a go at ditchlights on my next one of these now.

[Steveruger45]

Well, I have a Dash 9 appart now for my next install.  Am weighing up pros and cons again on which technique to use and am wondering how you got the headlight to light up from the round 3mm led on the front of the decoder.

[RBrodzinsky]

On the 73100, the front headlight solder pads are right on the underside of the front edge.

[Steveruger45]

Hi Rick
Thanks but that’s not what I meant.
The light pipe on this one is a one piece unit that spurs off in the middle to the head light and on the left and right sides to the ditch lights.  The OP has cut off the left and right sides and lit these individually for the ditchlights but I can’t see how the board mounted led lights up the head light now as I think this bit was chopped off and mounted on the shell which leaves a lot of unpiped space between it and the board mounted led.   ?
What I think the OP did is cut off the ditchlights spurs where they meet the main part and left the main part with headlight in it original location.  When looking at mine if I did that my left and right ditchlights pipes would be shorter than the OPs.
There may be a slight difference  in light pipes on these locos depending on the release?  Here’s what I mean in the picture

http://www.katousa.com/images/920110.jpg

[GM50 4164]

Hi Rick
Thanks but that’s not what I meant.
The light pipe on this one is a one piece unit that spurs off in the middle to the head light and on the left and right sides to the ditch lights.  The OP has cut off the left and right sides and lit these individually for the ditchlights but I can’t see how the board mounted led lights up the head light now as I think this bit was chopped off and mounted on the shell which leaves a lot of unpiped space between it and the board mounted led.   ?
What I think the OP did is cut off the ditchlights spurs where they meet the main part and left the main part with headlight in it original location.  When looking at mine if I did that my left and right ditchlights pipes would be shorter than the OPs.
There may be a slight difference  in light pipes on these locos depending on the release?  Here’s what I mean in the picture

http://www.katousa.com/images/920110.jpg

Steve, this version had 2 separate light pipes that came together at the LED location. I removed the ditch light one and use a fine tooth razor saw, split the piece in two. The small LEDs are held in place with the heat shrink tubing from that point on.

[Steveruger45]

Thanks for getting back on this.  So these light pipes are not all the same then.  Mine is a one piece unit like the picture I posted from the Kato spare parts page glass set 920110.  It appears there is another type for 2010 BNSF type release part number 920112 (no Kato photo, on this one).

 If I split the combined headlight ditchlights light pipe down the middle I would loose the head light lens pipe to the onboard led. I would have to split it into three pieces and even my razor saw would not leave much material left if I did that.  If I cut off the ditchlights pipes where they join the main light pipe they will be a lot shorter. 
I need to study this a bit more.

[Billg]

Hi Rick
Thanks but that’s not what I meant.
The light pipe on this one is a one piece unit that spurs off in the middle to the head light and on the left and right sides to the ditch lights.  The OP has cut off the left and right sides and lit these individually for the ditchlights but I can’t see how the board mounted led lights up the head light now as I think this bit was chopped off and mounted on the shell which leaves a lot of unpiped space between it and the board mounted led.   ?
What I think the OP did is cut off the ditchlights spurs where they meet the main part and left the main part with headlight in it original location.  When looking at mine if I did that my left and right ditchlights pipes would be shorter than the OPs.
There may be a slight difference  in light pipes on these locos depending on the release?  Here’s what I mean in the picture

http://www.katousa.com/images/920110.jpg

I cut the ditchlight pipes off all together.  I used a #62 drill (I think that's what it was.  I can check and make sure) to enlarge the original holes.  This allows for the use of 0402 smd's to fit with the "wings" catching the edges of the inside of the shell.  After I glued them in place, I used gloss black enamel on the inside to cover any light leaking through then I used Gallery Glass to create the lenses.  I think they look pretty good!

[Steveruger45]

Thanks @Billg
Appreciate the heads up.