2 Questions from a "CRS" Sufferer

[carlso]

I need some input, please. BTW, I have checked the DCC "Best of" topics and everywhere I can think of with no luck.

Question #1 -  I want to put sound in some older KATO heritage units from first run. You know, SP &
                      DRGW units. They both currently have Dtraxx and run fine, just want sound. I can't find
                      threads regarding whether the 73100 or 73199 work best. I could do 73800 if absolutely
                      necessary.
                      Also, which is best for FVM GP60's ?

Question #2 -   I am having problem making the "brake squeal" work in my ESU decoders.  I have the
                       new KATO Spirit 1943 and have added the brake squeal #2 value to my cv48 setting
                       and I thought I had turned up the volume on sound slot, but no brake noise. What am I
                       not doing?

I really like KATO and ESU and was especially happy when they got into bed together. However, IMHO,they need to get printed stuff out correctly. For example, on the detail sheet put out with the Spirit  sound file #73825, they state that there is only one prime mover sound and should have a value of 0 in cv48. But on the Bulletin I printed for sound file 73425, which is HO version, it states there are 4 prime mover files and lists their cv values. "Smart Start" cycle is an option and I think is pretty cool stuff.

Not casting stones, just making an observation.

I really appreciate the excellent help from all members, that's what is great about TRW.

Carl

[Steveruger45]

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44673.msg575544#msg575544

Hi Carl. I did a FVM GP60 with the 73100 decoder, details and photos in the above link. 

[Steveruger45]

Hi Carl
I’ve also done a couple of dash 9,s which I think the frames are similar to your heritage units, one with a 73800 and the other with a 73100. Links to these two installs below.

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44616.msg574488#msg574488

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=45354.msg587453;topicseen#msg587453

Hope it helps

[carlso]

Steve,

Yes, all those links are great and thanks for the posting.. I looked through umpteen # of DCC pages but I must not have had my transparent belt on. At any rate, thanks, not sure which route I'll go but will try something. Did or have you thought about drilling out the beacon on the FVM units for an LED?

BTW, nice looking layout.

Carl

[Steveruger45]

Hi Carl,  thanks. 
WRT to beacon on the FVM GP60.  Yes, I have thought about it but this will be something for the future when all my sound installs are done, (One more ac4400cw to go which is due on Christmas Day from Santa ( aka my wife) the install will be pretty much the same as the dash 9.)
  I was thinking to leave the fitted beacon in place and somehow make some sort of light pipe/shield underneath to focus to the onboard led connected to aux1 on the 73100.  That small onboard led at the front of the 73100 board is conveniently close to the beacon so I was thinking I could just glue on a bit of clear plastic tube to the beacon’s underside to do the needed. Maybe some optic fiber.  Still figuring this out.  I would be interested what you think about this idea.

WRT the brake squeal.  I haven’t messed with this yet on mine but I believe it is adjustable meaning that the loco speed when it applies is adjustable also the volume is adjustable too AFAIK.

[woodone]

Hi Carl,
Well I had just asked a question about the horns on the 73800 decoder. Remove power to make a CV change in CV48, maybe that is your answer.

As far has the decoder , I would go with the 73800 and hard wire. I find that by the time I fidle with gettting a drop in fitted and then being restriced to where I can install a speaker. I like to use a 9 X16 MM speaker to get the best sond that I can.
I am just as well off doing the 73800's

[carlso]

Steve,

I had been thinking about the beacon when I first got the loco. I sort of like the idea of a light tube made out of a clear rod and carefully heated with water to bend to reach the LED on the decoder. Also thought of fiber optics. Which ever I would want it fastened to bottom of beacon so that the shell would come off/on easy. I have used fibers before that look good for headlights and ditch lights. I'll just have to fiddle with it when ready.

Thanks for your input,
Carl

[woodone]

Carl,
I did one on an N scale loco. I used fiber optic material. I had to drill a hole into the optic material so you could see the yellow flashing from the side . Without the hole the yellow just showed on the end of the pipe.

[Steveruger45]

Woodone / Carl,
Thanks the input. I’ve never used, or come to that even seen fiber optic cable before.  Anyone know what size and type is suitable and where to get it in reasonable small quantities, say 10 feet?

[peteski]

Yes, light coming out of an optical fiber just comes straight out of the end.  When I use optical fibers on a model of a carousel I sand the end of the fibers into a cone shape (using a sanding disk in a Dremel tool at slow speed).  The roughly sanded cone shape nicely scatters the light over a wide angle.

[carlso]

I could not resist. My wife is a teddy bear collector and found a picture of the 1:1 CP #5902, so had to have. Here is my version.  The CP did this for 50th year anniversary of "Smokey". The second image shows the fiber optics installed. Yes, I have fixed the gap on the cab as well as the cab light is blacked out. There is a D'traxx decoder in there.





Steve, I have a suggestion but I do not know if this outfit is still in business or not.
Try WWW.TheFiberOpticStore.com

When I did the above project and a couple of others I ordered a sample packet of their fibers and cables.
The sample pack included:
               Single strand clear fibers:
                                                     .25mm, .50mm, .75mm, 1.0mm, 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 3.0mm is
                                                       available but not in sample

                Fiber Optic Black cable :
                                                      64(.264mm) strands encased in black sheathing
                                                       32 (.50mm) strands      "        "     "        "
This outfit has some neat stuff like side glow fibers and such.

I think the cable would be too stiff but may have some other use. Pete is right on regarding light from the fiber as it is like LED's which throw a beam. However, newer LED's are much wider with coverage, maybe 120*. Sanding does help the emitting of light from the fiber.

Hope this info is helpful,

Carl
                                                       
PS:  you can purchase fibers by the foot or rolls.

[Jbub]

The standard loksound micro decoder requires a lot of cutting of the frame to make room for the speaker and decoder.
@Mark W figured out a less invasive method using the new direct decoders in the following thread.

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44230.msg567927#msg567927

[carlso]

Darth Vader,

Thanks, not sure how I have missed all these good threads. I shall save in my "install" file.

Carl

[Steveruger45]

Carl
Thanks the info on the optic fiber.  I found the store you mentioned online.  They do hobby packs of 3 or 4 sizes each roll of 75ft. Or single 75ft rolls I don’t think I would ever use 75 feet of each size in a lifetime.  So, from your experience and if you had to pick one or two sizes only for n scale beacons and ditch lights what would you suggest, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75 or 1mm diameter.?

Ah!  I just found the sample pack you mentioned on their site and ordered one.   Thanks Carl.

[Steveruger45]

The standard loksound micro decoder requires a lot of cutting of the frame to make room for the speaker and decoder.
@Mark W figured out a less invasive method using the new direct decoders in the following thread.

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44230.msg567927#msg567927

I would agree having done both ways on the similar dash 9.