Double crossover frog juicer wiring

[Bill H]

Group:
Just finished up some code 40 turnouts this weekend. My question is about the double crossover at the bottom of the picture.


It is done in ME code 40, and the gaps in the rails and in the pcb ties are cut exactly as shown in the FastTracks n gauge #5 double crossover template. From what research I have seen on wiring double crossovers with frog juicers, they all are referencing PECO turnouts or plastic frog turnouts. Before I put this on the layout, I would like to get whatever wires need to be soldered underneath in place.

So, how should this double crossover be wired?
Kind regards,
Bill
p.s If anyone is wondering why the odd angle on the top right turnout, it is part of a prototype scene I am modeling.

[jagged ben]

Looks like you've got "Double Crossover Wiring Diagram Style I" from this page.

That is, as long as the polarity of the track on both sides is parallel and you don't have a reversing situation going on.

Nice looking work.

[Bill H]

Ben,
Many thanks, that is exactly the diagram I was looking for - odd I missed that one - guess I should have scrolled down further.

Kind regards,
Bill

[MK]

They look fantastic Bill!

[tehachapifan]

Frog juicer....that term always gets me!

[Maletrain]

Frog juicer....that term always gets me!

Yeah, it does conger-up a disgusting slurry of frog tissue. I am surprised that PETA hasn't sued the manufacturer to change that name.  (PETA did sue to have the name of a town called "Fish Kill" changed, even though the meaning of "Kill" in that context was apparently a Dutch word meaning "creek".) 

[Bill H]

They look fantastic Bill!

Thanks for the kind words, but it is really not that hard with code 40 - and of course with my optivisor. My biggest issues are attaching the ties, neither CA nor Plibond are consistently working as expected.

Kind regards,
Bill

[MK]

Yeah, it does conger-up a disgusting slurry of frog tissue. I am surprised that PETA hasn't sued the manufacturer to change that name.  (PETA did sue to have the name of a town called "Fish Kill" changed, even though the meaning of "Kill" in that context was apparently a Dutch word meaning "creek".)

That's dumb of them as it's spelled Fishkill, NY.  A short distance north of NYC.

[MK]

Thanks for the kind words, but it is really not that hard with code 40 - and of course with my optivisor. My biggest issues are attaching the ties, neither CA nor Plibond are consistently working as expected.

Kind regards,
Bill

CA won't work?  If you run out of ideas by others, try Quick Grip by Beacon Adhesive at Wally Word (cheaper) or Michael's.  That stuff sticks to everything!  We build radio control airplanes with it and I've repaired my running shoes with it.  Quick drying but NOT safe on foam.  If using it on foam try their FoamTac product.  Just as good but will not dissolve foam.  It's not waterbased so it too dries fast.  It's so tough we make airplane control surface hinges with it.

[bdennis]

Nice work Bill. Do you have any pictures during the progress of the build. Am interested to see how you achieved cutting / filing for the frog angles.
Re the ties, did you paint / stain / weather them? Does the paint rub off on the copper ties at the point end of the turnouts?

Really nice work..

[narrowminded]

Love it!

[Bill H]

Nice work Bill. Do you have any pictures during the progress of the build. Am interested to see how you achieved cutting / filing for the frog angles.
Re the ties, did you paint / stain / weather them? Does the paint rub off on the copper ties at the point end of the turnouts?

Really nice work..

Brendon:
Thank you for the compliment. Apologies for the late response but Mother's Day had me elsewhere.

Your points.
1. Did not take any pics simply because I did not think anyone would be interested. There are lots of threads on line, and some nice videos on line, especially at FastTracks.
2. Filling frog points, for the very sharp points I use the FastTracks point - frog tool if the angle is appropriate. Otherwise, I use a Dremel tool in their drill press arrangement and just eyeball the angles and finish with a flat file.
3. I made a template for adding ties that greatly simplifies the task for most of the#5 and #7 I build. I will take a pic when I get home and upload it.
4. I use a rattle can Rustoleum Dark Brown Camo and scrape the rail head top and insides about 20 minutes later. I don't spray any more turnouts than I can comfortable scrape before the paint gets too hard.
5. In the areas that the throw bar rubs against the bottom of the rails I use Max's darkening neo-lube and I keep the throw about half of what NMRA gauge expects- about the thickness of a pcb tie, so there is less to show.
6. I don't usually add the head land ties until I am putting the turnout on the layout, that saves a lot of issues.

I have been using Clover House PCB ties for some time, but the most recent runs were very disappointing, they were very warped and twisted, and the cuts were also poor. I use Kappler wood ties, which in height match ME code 40 ties. Frankly, I was not pleased with most of the commercial turnouts, and for some time the Atlas and ME turnouts were simply not available so I decided to roll my own, and I find them in general to perform much better, consistently, than the commercial variants.

Hope this helps.
Kind regards,
Bill
p.s. I will upload the tie fixture pic when I get home.