Are Current Atlas N Scale Locos Easy to Convert to DCC?

[Kisatchie]

You might consider accepting paypal --- it makes it easy to pull the trigger ..  rather than writing a check and waiting for it to clear ..

I really don't like using Paypal. I have a partially activated account, but PayPal insists I haven't given them all the required info to fully activate it. They say I need to provide proof of address, like a utility bill with my name/address on it. Well, my utility bill has the wrong street address on it, 299 Ash instead of 203 Ash. When we moved into our house, the number on it was 299 Ash. However, one day out of the blue, the 911 emergency service called and said to change the address to 203 Ash. How they got involved, I'll never know.

Anyhow, getting our goofy city hall to correct anything is useless. So that's why I won't use Paypal.


Hmm... too much info...

[peteski]

Kiz,
What happens to mail which is addressed to 299 Ash? Does it still get delivered to your house?  Or is there a real 299 Ash address down the street?  If the utility bill gets delivered with the wrong address (299), why not just give Paypal that address?  It is not like they'll call your local 911 to verify it. 

Is it really that difficult?  Then get a PO Box and use that as your Paypal address?

My Paypal account is tied to 3 addresses and I have no problems.  Are we just making excuses here?  I also set up a 2nd bank account, just for Paypal, separate from my regular bank accounts.  Been a member since early 2000 and no problems.  I send and receive money both for eBay transactions and for sending/receiving money to/from individuals (all over the world).

[Kisatchie]

Kiz,
What happens to mail which is addressed to 299 Ash? Does it still get delivered to your house?

Our town is so small, we don't get home delivery. We have PO boxes. The utility bill is addressed to both our PO box and street address.

PayPal has my address as the PO box AND 203 Ash Street. I don't want to go to PayPal and change my address to 299 Ash, because with my dealings with PayPal so far, that would be opening a can of worms. I usually buy on eBay and pay with a credit card through PayPal. My credit card billing address is PO box and 203 Ash St., and if I change it to 299 Ash, PayPal might reject my charges.

I'll just let sleeping dogs lie.


Hmm... it's a vicious
circle...

[peteski]

When I was verifying my Paypal addresses I never needed to present any utility bills. That is just nuts!  It is not like you're looking for a mortgage!  IIRC, when I wanted to have a verified address Paypal just sent a postcard to that address then asked for some info on it.  I'm sure there are Paypal users who don't have utility bills. How do they get their address verified?   

The important ting to do for me was to connect Paypal with my bank accout (separate from my regular savings and checking). That way I can get the cash money I receive through Paypal.

You are really limiting your ability to sell by not accepting Paypal payments. 

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Also, I've found the board dimension issues to be mostly with Digitrax boards. I've been happy with TCS and NCE ones, so I tend to use those anymore. In fact, I was mad when I discovered that someone else made boards for the SW1500s that I fought with for so long.

[jmarley76]

My car sales aren't doing too hot so far. Wonder if it's my prices?


Hmm... no, it's using the
Mafia to collect on sales...

Nope, it's my limited funding... 

[jdcolombo]

As far as the decoder installs, a couple of tricks, some learned the hard way:
1. Only program on a programming track, not the main. Can save you from smoking a decoder.
2. Take pictures of the loco as you disassemble it, so you'll remember where everything goes.
3. Make sure the trucks are oriented correctly. The little gears should be on opposite sides.
3. When installing a CN, use an optivisor or magnifier and make sure there are no stray wires.
I was terrified the first time I installed a decoder.
Ben

You can't "smoke" a decoder by programming on the main.  You can certainly ruin a decoder that's not installed correctly by putting it on the track and subjecting it to full track power, but that's not a programming issue.  After I install a decoder, I use a multimeter in "continuity test" mode to make sure that the decoder is isolated from the frame; that the motor is isolated from the frame, etc. - it's pretty easy: just clip one lead to the frame, and poke around with the other lead.   If you get a buzz or chime or something indicating that there is continuity when there shouldn't be, find and fix the problem.

Taking photos of disassembly is a good idea of you've never done it before.  Diesels are pretty simple, but still . . .

Installing a decoder need not be terrifying.  Just follow directions and use common sense.  The main thing to be careful of is that nothing on the decoder board is touching the frame  except where it is supposed to (e.g., the power pickup tabs); if you have any doubts, use some tape to insulate things (Kapton tape is probably the best, but anything will work: electrical tape, Scotch tape, painter's tape, etc.).  Modest soldering skill is needed; you don't need to be an expert, but if you've never soldered anything in your life, practice on some scrap wire first.  It's not like you're looking for gravitational waves; it's a skill that can be acquired by anyone with a bit of practice.  We're modelers, after all: learn the skill and go for it.

John C.

[Upstate Gator]

John,
I didn't articulate my point well. My first decoder install was a NAVO. I shorted the decoder and did just about everything wrong. Installed the trucks incorrectly, LED shorted on frame when shell was put on, two puffs of smoke, etc.
My point about the Main was that the programming track had less potential to cause harm because of reduced current..

Now, after a little experience and having someone knowledgeable warch me do an install, installing decoders is straightforward.
Ben

[peteski]

Maybe statign that the initial programming shoudl only be done on the programmig track would be more in line of what you were trying to convey?

Once programmed successfully, the loco will have to be placed on the main line. If it works as expected then it is perfectly safe to program it on the main.  But I only program motor adjustment values (like BEMF) or sound settings on main.  Why? Because in order to program on main you have to know the loco's address (never send any main programming to address zero!) and you don't get an acknowledgement that the programming actually worked.  SO you are blindly sending the programming commands.  The other thing is that some CV settings need a full decoder re-initialization to take effect. If the loco is on the main track you have to remember to momentarily lift it off the track.

[mmyers]

Best way to test an installation is to use a current limited track. that can be simply a current limited programming track or if that is not available make a special track up for testing. A 100ohm, 1/2 watt resistor in series with one of the rails is all that is needed to build a current limited test track. Digitrax used to include the resistor with their sets. I think they stopped some time ago.

Martin Myers