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Being a confirmed rivet counter and a diehard U.P. modeler, two decades ago I went to extremes to find the "correct" U.P. colors (Armour Yellow, Harbor Mist Gray) by spraying various brands' colors over a primer base, then taking my samples down to the Riverdale Yard and comparing them to real engines parked there between noon and 2:00PM on a May day. My findings were that Scalecoat II had the best color as well as a nice shiny finish for newly painted U.P. colors.However, on really weathered faded engines, Floquil was the best Armour Yellow, even to its flat finish.Harbor Mist Gray was different on most faded engines with a combination of dust, grime, exhaust fume coating and fading due to sunlight or heat. Location on the engine also made differences.Can't agree with you more!No problem with any of Kato's UP yellows!BruceLater, as I got into modeling specific U.P. engines, cabooses and passenger equipment using photos as references, it became obvious that there were many variations in the prototype colors depending on where the equipment was shopped, its usage, and how long it'd been since the last shopping, with photos containing images of several pieces of equipment supposedly painted the same colors showing obvious variations.The conclusion that I came to regarding various manufacturers' versions of U.P. colors is that (within certain parameters) the variations in equipment color in N-scale on my layout doesn't bother me anymore, since there are similar variations in the "real world".With the addition of weathering, the differences become less obvious...even just a bit of weathering with an airbrush or chalks makes a huge difference in the overall appearance, and individual color differences start to look much more acceptable and prototypical.Just sayin'....
I'm sure what I'm about to ask is probably ludicrous to some, but I don't want to go the brass route yet (if ever). I plan on converting my Dome-Lounge tailcar from the Kato CoLA set into a UPP 9009 City of San Francisco. Mainly I would have to remove the side lights and of course the neon light and plan on just filling that back in with styrene and a diaphragm, as well as probably shaving the rear light off.What is the best paint match for the set?Chris
Chris,There's an article about your project in the Sept-Oct 2012 N Scale Railroading, Page 54 thru 57 by TRW's own Bill Denton (and it is an excellent, complete article I might add).His paint mixture to match the Kato COLA Armour Yellow is: 15 parts Tru-Color Armour Yellow to 1 part Tru-Color Milwaukee Road Orange.If you haven't seen this article by Bill, I would highly recommend it as he's also got other techniques outlined that I'd never heard of before which work really great.
I think I have this one, but not 100% sure, it would be in storage as I moved. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is where he also did modifications to the tail car as well? I'll definitely have to try to find my copy if I have one or somewhere online.Edit ~ I did find my copy, and of course it was the one issue that had something spilt on it. Luckily those 4 pages are safe for the most part. Will definitely aid me in doing my 3 domes. Though of course one will still have the end windows (UPP 9009 City of San Francisco) and the other two plated over (UPP 9005 Walter Dean & UPP 9004 Harriman). Still not sure if I will do the ribs for those two; Bob, do you know what the ribs were for? I can't seem to find information on them.Chris