Throw bar throw on N-Scale turnouts built with FastTrack

[alhoop]

Most factory turnouts in N-scale have a throw bar distance of about 2 millimeters. I would like to
know what the distance is on turnouts built with Fast Track jigs.
Thanks
Al

[Chris333]

Do you mean width? I use HO ties on N scale turnouts. As for how far they stick out from the track you can just print out a template.

[Chris333]

Errr wait you mean how far do they move?  I use the points on a NMRA gauge to figure the gaps out and the gaps are how far it moves.

[davefoxx]

Most factory turnouts in N-scale have a throw bar distance of about 2 millimeters. I would like to
know what the distance is on turnouts built with Fast Track jigs.
Thanks
Al

Al,

It's going to depend on the width of your flangeways.  If you build the turnout to tighter tolerances, the throw will be much less than if you build it to NMRA standards.  Are you trying to figure out what kind of ground throw to use?  I might be able to measure the throw of the slide switches that I use are (which are just enough), if it will help.

DFF

[alhoop]

I guess I didn't ask the question right - I want to know how far the points move on a N-Scale turnout built on a Fast Track jig.
All my Peco turnouts move about 2 mm as do my Shinohara turnouts except for a curved one that moves 3 mm. All my Kato turnouts
also move 3 mm. This is for a project where I'm putting switch stands with provisions to power the  frog on my Pecos and Shinoharas and I sold my only Fast Track turnout - sure don't want to buy one just for this info.
Al

[Chris333]

They move as far as you make them move    You solder them in place.
Even if I use the Jig I take it out to solder on the throwbar and there is a set of notches on the NMRA gauge that tells you how far the gap should be at the points, it is different and wider than flangeways. You could solder them so they match your other turnout if you like.

The NMRA gauge meaused .045" for me so that is what the throw should be.

[PGE_Modeller]

They move as far as you make them move    You solder them in place.
Even if I use the Jig I take it out to solder on the throwbar and there is a set of notches on the NMRA gauge that tells you how far the gap should be at the points, it is different and wider than flangeways. You could solder them so they match your other turnout if you like.

The NMRA gauge meaused .045" for me so that is what the throw should be.

NMRA Standard S-3 (Trackwork) specifies two dimensions that affect the gap at switchpoints:  minimum track gauge (0.353") and maximum point spread (0.312" (electrical) or 0.317" (mechanical)).  The minimum point "gap" (flangeway) is minimum track gauge - maximum point spread; i.e. 0.041" (electrical) or 0.036" (mechanical).  If the turnout is so constructed that the points are always the same polarity as the adjacent stock rail, then the mechanical dimension may be used.  If both points are the same polarity, as is the case when they are joined by a non-insulated throwbar, then the NMRA Standard requires that the electrical dimension be used in order to guard against short circuits caused by a wheel bridging between the open point rail and the stock rail.

Cheers,

[Chris333]

Anything you use to throw them should be slightly sprung so the points are tight against the stock rails.

[jdcolombo]

You can set the throw distance however you want.  Fast Tracks recommends soldering one of the point rails to the throwbar while the turnout is in the jig.  Then you take the nearly-complete skeleton out of the jig, use a spacer of some sort between the stock rail and other point rail, and the solder the second point rail.  All you have to do to set the throw distance is make up a spacer that is the thickness you want.  Then you make sure the first soldered point rail is snug against its stock rail, slip the spacer in between the other point rail and its stock rail, and solder. 

John C.