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Author Topic: Adding Micro-Trains Couplers to Model Power 160(?) Ton Crane?  (Read 1682 times)

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Kisatchie

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Adding Micro-Trains Couplers to Model Power 160(?) Ton Crane?
« on: October 01, 2013, 07:17:43 PM »
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Has anyone tried adding MTL couplers to the Model Power 160(?) ton crane?

See:  http://www.spookshow.net/freight/rococrane.html

I have a chance to get one pretty cheap, but if it's hard to convert to Micro Trains, I'll pass.

Thanks for any help.


Hmm... Kiz needs more
help than he can get here
on the forum...

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Two scientists create a teleportation ray, and they try it out on a cricket. They put the cricket on one of the two teleportation pads in the room, and they turn the ray on.
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Frisco Larry

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Re: Adding Micro-Trains Couplers to Model Power 160(?) Ton Crane?
« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2013, 08:03:09 PM »
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I just replaced the trucks with MTL Buckeye trucks; MTL 1173 (003 02 112) takes care of the coupler and looks better
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Kisatchie

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Re: Adding Micro-Trains Couplers to Model Power 160(?) Ton Crane?
« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2013, 08:26:22 PM »
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Quote from: Frisco Larry on October 01, 2013, 08:03:09 PM
I just replaced the trucks with MTL Buckeye trucks; MTL 1173 (003 02 112) takes care of the coupler and looks better

That's great! Thanks.


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Two scientists create a teleportation ray, and they try it out on a cricket. They put the cricket on one of the two teleportation pads in the room, and they turn the ray on.
The cricket jumps across the room onto the other pad.
"It works! It works!"

nkalanaga

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Re: Adding Micro-Trains Couplers to Model Power 160(?) Ton Crane?
« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2013, 01:52:34 AM »
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Oh yes.  I took the other tack, and added MT 1025s, as that was what I used on everything.  Remove the truck mounted couplers, build a styrene mounting pad to get the right height, drill, tap, and screw the coupler on.  If you prefer, 1015s should go on the same way.  Unless you have streetcar-style curves there isn't much truck swing, and mine easily took 9 inch radius.

Once that's done, it's easy to fill the gap in the pilot, and then you can add as many details as you like.
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N Kalanaga
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randgust

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Re: Adding Micro-Trains Couplers to Model Power 160(?) Ton Crane?
« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2013, 09:29:40 AM »
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I took even the cheaper way out -  I simply put Red Caboose couplers (unimate) on my Bachmann crane by popping out the Rapidos and putting those in and kept the original trucks.   I think I used the medium-shank ones.  It spends all of its time sitting in the yard anyway.   If it were 'live' in a train I woujld have gone the buckeye trucks route, but in this case the only time it is out of the yard is for a photo op.  That also gave me the close coupling I wanted between the crane and the boom tender.
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nkalanaga

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Re: Adding Micro-Trains Couplers to Model Power 160(?) Ton Crane?
« Reply #5 on: October 03, 2013, 01:44:32 AM »
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The Unimates could be used for operations if one wished.  Unless one actually uses the "big hook" for cleaning up wrecks it's likely that all it ever does is run back and forth.  Many roads have boom/storage cars on both ends so that the boom can trail in either direction without switching the consist.  Put working couplers on one end of each boom car, Unimates on the other and the crane, and you're ready to roll.
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Kisatchie

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Re: Adding Micro-Trains Couplers to Model Power 160(?) Ton Crane?
« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2013, 10:16:13 AM »
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I think I'm going to go with the Micro-Trains trucks/couplers. I don't like how Unimates look.


Hmm... I don't like how
Kiz looks...

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Two scientists create a teleportation ray, and they try it out on a cricket. They put the cricket on one of the two teleportation pads in the room, and they turn the ray on.
The cricket jumps across the room onto the other pad.
"It works! It works!"

nkalanaga

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Re: Adding Micro-Trains Couplers to Model Power 160(?) Ton Crane?
« Reply #7 on: October 04, 2013, 02:03:53 AM »
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I don't either, except on B units.  Nobody can see them well there anyway, and it is an easy way to close-couple Kato Fs.  I used them on the rear of the As and both ends of the Bs, since they have to be manually coupled and uncoupled anyway on a DC layout.
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