Author Topic: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.  (Read 9713 times)

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Ed Kapuscinski

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #60 on: February 23, 2013, 09:01:56 AM »
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They can't and they don't. They can't use a gauge either. Wouldn't have 8 different lengths of 5 inch joiner tracks if they could. But spiking down a 6 inch section of loose track on a module? I wouldn't call that a better solution even if it does look better. It proves that even the best can't measure dead on. Heck, I can't walk on a job and start cutting perfect for another carpenter on the first day. Takes a few cuts to get our "eyes" in sync. Of course pros know which side of the line to cut and how thick a pencil lead is.

Martin Myers

This. 20 times this.

Everybody's 5" is different...

wm3798

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #61 on: February 23, 2013, 09:26:23 AM »
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Ed, if you've only got 5" maybe that's your problem... :trollface:
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Sokramiketes

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #62 on: February 23, 2013, 10:45:17 AM »
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But spiking down a 6 inch section of loose track on a module? I wouldn't call that a better solution even if it does look better. It proves that even the best can't measure dead on.

Martin Myers

We built two shorty template modules that clamp to either side of a new module.  Then we run the track right up to the edge, matching the templates, and fix it in place.  We get away with no joiner tracks, no spiking, and ballast right up to the edge. 

mmyers

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #63 on: February 23, 2013, 12:19:52 PM »
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Attention to the carpentry while building the module is a must. The mating ends have to be dead plumb. A degree either way will either yield a hump or a gap at the rail joint. I cut the frames for a couple of modules using an old chop saw. Never bothered to check it or the cuts before making the "good" cuts. The two module pair went together fine as they just happened to be cuts from opposite sides of the blade. The ends that had to join up to adjacent modules were the problem. I wound up morticing a groove in the ends and fitting a hardwood shim. Then I re-cut the ends plumb on my table saw. That was a real PITA considering all I needed to do was set the original saw up first and check with a square after cutting. BTW, I never use dimensional lumber for frames. Ripped furniture grade plywood is the way to go.

Martin Myers

wm3798

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #64 on: February 23, 2013, 12:29:42 PM »
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We built two shorty template modules that clamp to either side of a new module.  Then we run the track right up to the edge, matching the templates, and fix it in place.  We get away with no joiner tracks, no spiking, and ballast right up to the edge.

THIS, gents, is the solution.  The trick is having enough standards templates that are identical to allow a larger group to "do it right"... either that or you have a standards committee and a work group that circulated around and makes sure the one template fits all.

For our OneTrak group, I can see this working.  For a large N Trak club, it will be harder to pull off.

Personally, I prefer the look of the flush cut track and ballast all the way.  It's really not that hard to get the mechanics to work, and the visual results are ALWAYS better.


This is the joint where the drop leaf section ran across a closet door on my layout.  The piece on the left dropped down to clear the door,  hence the angled cut and slight extension on the right.  I had it secured with a couple of barrel bolts.  Apart from a pleasant "clickety clack" it never gave me a problem.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2013, 12:34:36 PM by wm3798 »
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robert3985

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #65 on: February 23, 2013, 04:30:50 PM »
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They can't and they don't. They can't use a gauge either. Wouldn't have 8 different lengths of 5 inch joiner tracks if they could. But spiking down a 6 inch section of loose track on a module? I wouldn't call that a better solution even if it does look better. It proves that even the best can't measure dead on. Heck, I can't walk on a job and start cutting perfect for another carpenter on the first day. Takes a few cuts to get our "eyes" in sync. Of course pros know which side of the line to cut and how thick a pencil lead is.

Martin Myers

Well Martin, it is a better solution, even if you wouldn't call it that.  Looks better, much faster, compensates for slight misalignments, no tracks to measure and cut, then cut again and again, no rail joiners carrying power and looking ugly, no unpainted, unweathered rails between modules, and it's less work.

The standard calls for ME track, so there is no loose, floppy track as there would be we were using Atlas 55 or (yecchhh!) 80 and it only takes two spikes to get it to stay in place.

However, I like the idea of a template/jig to use for each end.  BUT, if the modeler can't use a tape measure, then maybe he/she can use the template.  Huh?  Does that make sense?  Why is a template any better than a tape measure??

I'll give the template idea a go.  Maybe humans use a different part of the brain when using a template as opposed to using a tape measure...

wm3798

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #66 on: February 23, 2013, 06:52:22 PM »
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A template gives you a "hard to dispute" reference point.  Some folks will read a tape measure to one side of the printed mark or another.  Framing a house?  No biggie.  Keeping N scale trains on the track... might be a problem.

The template offers a real world, physical guide that demonstrates in 3-D whether your track is in the right place or not.  If it doesn't meet the template, then you can be pretty sure that it won't meet the other fellow's module.  If it does, then if there's a problem, it's not yours.

Templates now!  Templates forever!

(and besides, we all know Skibbe can't spell his own name, much less read a tape measure!)

Lee
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Zox

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #67 on: February 23, 2013, 07:34:00 PM »
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...we align the outside tracks at the module ends, then (if needed) we just bend the inside tracks a little to get them exactly aligned, and spike them down on the Midwest cork roadbed, which is ballasted on the sides, and painted on the top to match the ballast.

Doesn't the constant spiking/de-spiking chew up the roadbed? Eventually, it seems to me, you'd have difficulty finding a solid place to put the spikes. Do you deliberately "misalign" the modules a little from show to show, to allow the spikes to be in fresh cork each time?
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robert3985

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #68 on: February 23, 2013, 11:56:35 PM »
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Doesn't the constant spiking/de-spiking chew up the roadbed? Eventually, it seems to me, you'd have difficulty finding a solid place to put the spikes. Do you deliberately "misalign" the modules a little from show to show, to allow the spikes to be in fresh cork each time?

We've only attended two shows in 2012.  Will attend three, maybe four this year.  Since there is a "preferred" setup, and all the modules went together the same way at the last show as they did at the first show, there was no need to unspike the ends.  Plus, they don't need to be spiked in the same spot every time.  We're using Proto87 Stores etched long spikes, so they are very very small as compared to like ME spikes.

But, as I said, I'm going to try the template-use-the-other-part-of-your-brain idea that Skibbe uses with much success, but I don't believe all that "you've got 3D 12 dimensions real world" horse hockey that makes it somehow "easier" to align track than gluing it down after positioning it using a tape measure, or a dial caliper.  The fact is, with double track mainlines, as long as the first track is close (the distance from the track centerline to the front fascia) and the distance between the tracks is exact is all that matters...oh, and that their railheads are the same height.  Nobody cares if the front fascias or skyboards don't exactly match because there are no consequences.

As I'm writing this, it comes to mind that perhaps a jig rather than a template would be better, which would actually position the two mainlines in relation to each other and the front fascia all that the same time allowing the tracks to be held in place as the glue cures.  Hmmm...that shouldn't be too difficult to cobble up.  Could also work for single track and three track mainlines....hmmmm...
« Last Edit: February 23, 2013, 11:59:32 PM by robert3985 »

VonRyan

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #69 on: February 24, 2013, 02:46:54 AM »
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Cody,

If you're Ntrak, then the busses are 12ga. as that's the requirement.

Anderson Powerpoles are GREAT, and way better than Cinch-Jones Connectors, even though the technology for both of them is roughly contiguous.

The truth is that joiner tracks, which at first may seem "simple" are not simple.  They are a royal pain in the butt.  Although I run my tracks flush with the module ends and glue them down permanently on my LDE's because they are always set up together (dedicated), on our common ends, the inside track is not glued down 5 to 6 inches back from the edge...so, at shows when we set up, we align the outside tracks at the module ends, then (if needed) we just bend the inside tracks a little to get them exactly aligned, and spike them down on the Midwest cork roadbed, which is ballasted on the sides, and painted on the top to match the ballast.  It takes only a fraction of the time Ntrakers take messing with joiner tracks, and additionally, track current is not carried by corroded and loose rail joiners, but through the rails connected to feeders like the rest of the layout. Also, the track is painted and weathered just like the rest of the trackage, so there's no transition from nicely weathered, painted track to raw plastic ties and unpainted rails with shiny rail joiners.  Doesn't look a little better, it looks exponentially better.

The Ntrak joiner track solution illustrates my point exactly.  Using joiner tracks is only "simple" because nobody thought of a more efficient, functionally better system, and Jim Fitzgerald evidently thought that the vast majority of model railroaders don't know how to read a tape measure, nor can they glue something down precisely...so...Ntrak has joiner tracks...the "simple" solution that really isn't simple at all and the source of the vast majority of running problems that the Ntrak design encourages.

My CTC system will be hooked up through Loconet, and be a simple, plug-in affair as CTC was used on only three sidings between Petersen and Wahsatch up Weber Canyon during my time period (1951 through 1956).  The rest of the rails, between Petersen and Altamont, were ABS until 1952, following a collision of the COSF and the COLA at Wyuta which happened because bad weather (blizzard conditions) made reading the signals impossible.  Following that, the signaling was ACS, which is essentially the same as ABS but with repeaters in the cabs. So, my ABS signalling scheme will operate prototypically, with sensors actuated by occupancy to control my signal lamps...without human intervention, just like it was in 1951 in Weber and Echo Canyons.

I don't have a problem with "revealing too much" as everything I do is open for perusal, criticism, improvement and adoption by any model railroader.  I'm puzzled as to why your club's CTC system specifics are being kept confidential????

Lee, I like your ideas and the LDE you'll be modeling.  I too can't wait to see what you choose to do in the end.  As to skyboards, some people like 'em, some people don't.  I'm one of the people who really like 'em, and I believe they add considerable depth to any scene.  They are restrictive by their very nature, but that's one of the principles of a boxed diorama, in use by many museums throughout the world.  On the other hand, no skyboards is also restrictive in that it limits a "realistic" view of modules to God's Eye views and realistic photography with portable backgrounds or setting up outside. Of course, there's always Photoshop.  I in no way think that eliminating them makes the scene more realistic.  In fact, I would argue just the opposite, which is the main reason I decided to incorporate them into my module design.  However, mine are removable, both for maintenance and transportation ease and if you decide to go with a club whose standards don't allow skyboards, simply removing them would help adapt your modules to their standards.

One thing I've done that is a little odd is to make my skyboards 8' long in my LDE's, which are comprised of 6' modules.  This offsets the skyboard seams from the module joints, which de-emphasizes them (and is another reason they're removable!)  Something to think about.

I'm not keeping anything a secret. Explaining the intricacies of the CTC system and the proper terminology involved is above my pay-grade unless I were to have visuals on hand, by which I mean set-up in person.

As for everything else... If my schools woodshop can't keep a piece of wood from twisting on the racks, then I would never expect anyone to get any measurements/alignments 100% correct unless they hired machinists to do it all for them, including me.
Plus, No one can prevent expansion and contraction.

Obviously you demand much from yourself (as do I of my own self, although it doesn't get me anywhere usually), but to ask the same of someone else is pushing the boundaries if you ask me. For me It's a matter of personal morals.

-Cody F.
Cody W Fisher  —  Wandering soul from a bygone era.
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Sokramiketes

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #70 on: February 24, 2013, 10:52:51 PM »
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The templates are about 16" long. They were framed the same way as our modules. They were clamped together and track was laid across both modules. Then a Dremel cutoff disc separated the rail at the joint.

If I had them in my possession at the moment I'd post a photo. Measuring is fine, but there's a few additional benefits to template modules:

1) Using a rail joiner on the rail head allows track on the new module to be set at correct location in all three dimensions at once.
2) Because the template modules have 16" of straight track, one can "sight-in" the track alignment on the new module to make sure the track is straight and tangent headed into the joint. A jig wouldn't allow this.
3) Due to our articulated leg design, the template modules also mark the location for the leg pockets in relation to the track. 

robert3985

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #71 on: February 25, 2013, 12:28:46 AM »
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I'm not keeping anything a secret. Explaining the intricacies of the CTC system and the proper terminology involved is above my pay-grade unless I were to have visuals on hand, by which I mean set-up in person.

As for everything else... If my schools woodshop can't keep a piece of wood from twisting on the racks, then I would never expect anyone to get any measurements/alignments 100% correct unless they hired machinists to do it all for them, including me.
Plus, No one can prevent expansion and contraction.

Obviously you demand much from yourself (as do I of my own self, although it doesn't get me anywhere usually), but to ask the same of someone else is pushing the boundaries if you ask me. For me It's a matter of personal morals.

-Cody F.

About the CTC, okay..now it's clear. I have a "button" about modelers who want to keep "secrets" unless they're going to introduce a new product commercially...then, it's only expected.  Just my problem, no harm, no foul.

Actually, my little "loose track" scheme is designed for people who can't get it perfect...it compensates for their imperfections (and mine too), and makes it easy to do so, and it's simple, and inexpensive.

Skibbe's 16" template/jig...it IS both (a "jimplate"??), on the other hand, expects Midwest whatever guys to meet their module end track tolerances (in three directions)...perfectly enough (with the help of the "jimplate") so that no dinking around with tracks is necessary when the modules are buckled up.  Seems to work for them okay, and it's even easier, ..and perhaps in the long run, even simpler than my solution.   Just requires a higher level of positioning and gluing skills.

Nobody obviously can get anything 100% "correct" and nothing in my remarks says I expect that impossibility from anybody, myself included.  People who design and prototype things (like me) use tolerances, which can be either generous or tight.  Whenever function is involved, the tolerances usually have to be fairly tight, and modular setups are all about function, particularly where the tracks come together and is the area on modules that generates the most operating problems, by far.

I am puzzled that you think it's a moral issue to expect other module owners to be able to get their tracks properly aligned.  :?

Personally, I think a "jimplate" for us will assist most of our members to get it right without a loose track to dink around with, just like the Midwest guys, and keep the whole thing as amoral as possible.  :trollface:

robert3985

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Re: Free Mo N or Ntrak. Seeking direction now for a project later.
« Reply #72 on: February 25, 2013, 12:33:06 AM »
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If I had them in my possession at the moment I'd post a photo. Measuring is fine, but there's a few additional benefits to template modules:

Skibbe,

I'll be watching for photos.  This sounds like an excellent solution.