FVM 50' underframes work with MT

[tom mann]

MT 50' cars take forever to lower since the underframe is metal.  You need to file and drill a significant amount of metal away.  I lowered my first FVM boxcar, and it doesn't take long at all:

1.  File bolsters flat.
2.  Notch car ends up to platform.
3.  Enjoy a cool, long smoke out on the deck.
4.  Cut away a middle section of underframe to clear the coupler boxes.

But the cool thing is that the FVM 50' boxcar underframes are interchangeable with the MT 50' boxcar underframes.  So, does FVM plan on offering these as a separately available part?

[Mark5]

Now this is good info!  Thanks!

[nwline]

Tom
Great catch , I also have alot of M/T boxes and that seems the way to go for lowering them. I run into Matt , the owner of Fox Valley Models once and a while and will ask him if he plans to offer them as parts .

Matt is also on "The Railwire" now and then so he should be able to post his plan's.

Dave

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed the FVM cars look a little high...

[tom mann]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed the FVM cars look a little high...

Yeah, I was afraid to say something until I had a solution...

[Sokramiketes]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed the FVM cars look a little high...

Yeah, as Tom found out, you'd have to notch the ends of the car to have it ride at the "correct" height.  I've had to fill in notched ends on a few other cars I've body mounted couplers on, and it's not a fun task.  This way, all the detail is on the car, and its much easier to cut it off than to add it if that's your thing. 

[tom mann]

I also change out the short roller bearing trucks (MT terminology) to medium barber roller bearing trucks (MT terminology).  This allows the top of the trip pin to clear the etched metal walkway.  This seems to be more in line with the prototypes.