uncoupling Q

[dnhouston]

I recently removed all my magnets and went with the wood skewers.  No more false uncouplings and I like being able to easily uncouple wherever I want.

[ednadolski]

Don't quite understand all the references to trip pins snagging on turnouts. Either you have not set them to the correct height, or there is something seriously wrong with your turnouts. The bottom of the trip pin should be .01" above the rail head. Nothing on a turnout (or anywhere else on the track) should be that high. The trip pins can be even higher if you are not using magnetic uncoupling.

Yes you're absolutely right, the issue is usually when the couple droops more that 0.010" so the trip pin snags. I've gotten cars out of the box like that.  Also cars occasionally come out of the box with the coupler OK but the pin still set too low.  Of course cars with droopy couplers should be taken out of service until properly fixed, but still the nominal 0.010" clearance for the trip pin isn't much.  A droop of 0.010" might otherwise be tolerated (esp. if mated to a similarly droopy coupler) except that the trip pins start to snag.

Since I don't use magnetic coupling, to me the trip pins are just an unsightly nuisance -- cutting 'em off is quicker, easier, and more permanent than adjusting them.  (I wish it were that easy to lower the carbody.)

[Train Nutz]

I used a small flat head screw driver that I ground and filed to a point simular to a Rix's pick. I've used that tool for may years since making it. The Rix's pick is good and so are bamboo skewers as I seen others use these for uncoupling. I stay clear of uncoupling magnets in N scale and never had much luck with them. The magnets in HO with HO equipment operate much better and are not as finicky as their N scale counter parts. As for trip pins catching I 've had that problem too from time to time. Catching crossings, turnouts & road crossings. And it seems to always be the accumates that do this. The pins are only pushed into a mounting hole and tend to come loose and droop catching everything in it's path. When I purchase anything that has accumates on the, I pull the pins and throw them away before placing any cars or engines on the layout. MT's are great and the best knuckle coupler out there. Check the pin for height and make adjustments if need for trouble free operation. These pins don't come loose & snag like the accumates and are important for the operation of the coupler. It's part of the mechanism and assembly of the coupler and helps hold it together.
Train Nutzzzzzzzzzzzz

[Nato]

  I've eaten alot of Deli Sandwiches and Double Burgers to obtain those long toothpicks with the small colored Cheer Leader Pom Pom decoration on the top. These serve ,but shed colored material on the layout occaisionally. I guess I should break down and get wood skewers. Naw. Then I couldn't enjoy my favorite large Grinder. I have two railroad crossings with the roadway between the rails, one scratch built on a former N Quack module now part of the layout and the other Green Max. These will instantly let you know if the pins on a loco or car, especially a new one is hanging low. Unfortunately the pins on early Atlas Accumates would easly come out when bent and then become hard to replace,and yes "No Magnets on  main lines". That includes a branch line (just removed my last one there,on a ex module, but they are ok on industrial sidings. Our club once had a yard with electro magnets underneath, while it worked great, remembering which button activicates which magnet under a given track,even if its local was marked was more trouble then it was worth. Nate Goodman (Nato). Salt Lake,Utah.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

  I've eaten alot of Deli Sandwiches and Double Burgers to obtain those long toothpicks with the small colored Cheer Leader Pom Pom decoration on the top.

Well this is embarassing... when I read that, the first thing I saw was "chear leader porn porn"... I need to spend less time on the internets...