Author Topic: DCC/DC "Friendly" Hand-Laid PCB Turnout Diagram  (Read 303 times)

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robert3985

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DCC/DC "Friendly" Hand-Laid PCB Turnout Diagram
« on: October 16, 2024, 02:13:00 PM »
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I had one of our TRW members ask me for a link that explains exactly what a DCC Friendly PCB hand-laid turnout is and how to create the electrical turnout circuit to make it "Friendly".

After doing half an hour of Google searching, I could only find diagrams and explanations of HO and N RTR commercially available turnouts, soooo....I decided to create a diagram explaining what "DCC Friendly" means, and how to gap the rails and PCB ties to make that happen for hand-built N-scale PCB turnouts.

Also, I've known since I was a kid in the 1960's what the best way to ensure no shorts and reliable running on model railroad turnouts, but I think it's not correct to assume that every model railroader knows what a "DCC Friendly" turnout is, so I'm posting this little diagram here for those of us who build our own PCB turnouts, or those who wish to make sure their hand-made PCB turnouts are gapped correctly for "Friendliness".

Note that a "DCC Friendly" turnout is also a "DC Friendly" turnout.

Photo (1) - My "DCC Friendly Turnout" captioned diagram:


Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
« Last Edit: October 16, 2024, 02:14:43 PM by robert3985 »

Lemosteam

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Re: DCC/DC "Friendly" Hand-Laid PCB Turnout Diagram
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2024, 05:28:55 AM »
+3
Thanks Robert, this helped on my switch a lot, to confirm that I had it set up properly.

The only thing I would add is to use a multi-meter to validate that there is no continuity across rails of opposite polarity, that the frog has no continuity to either "side" of the switch, and that there is no short across the tie gaps. Sometimes little shards of copper can be left behind in those gaps, and the continuity test will find them.

robert3985

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Re: DCC/DC "Friendly" Hand-Laid PCB Turnout Diagram
« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2024, 06:26:33 AM »
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Thanks Robert, this helped on my switch a lot, to confirm that I had it set up properly.

The only thing I would add is to use a multi-meter to validate that there is no continuity across rails of opposite polarity, that the frog has no continuity to either "side" of the switch, and that there is no short across the tie gaps. Sometimes little shards of copper can be left behind in those gaps, and the continuity test will find them.

Excellent point!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore