Mini 8K is Faltering.. Thinking About a DLP Printer

[Jesse6669]

So my trusty Phrozen Mini 8K has a dead band in the LCD screen (about 1/3 of the way across, 1cm or so wide) and a replacement screen is about $100.  I've been thinking about getting a DLP printer, and this might be a sign because that's a third of the cost of a new printer. 

• The cost of a DLP printer is about $350 (Anycubic Photon D2 is $369 and Elegoo Mars 4 DLP is $349). 
• Build plate size isn't a big deal (T gauge stuff is small) so looking at Photon D2 and Mars 4 DLP.
• I  know the DLP are "2K" printers but hoping the native sharpness of DLP plus aggressive anti-aliasing will compensate for pixel size and resolution will be about the same, with less printing issues and less sensitive exposure settings.

I'm most curious how the DLP will handle some of the really small/thin details I've managed to squeeze out of the Mini8K, like handrails/details that are down to 0.14mm thick or even less, and can it do them with fewer/no supports?

Of the two, I lean towards the Elegoo Mars 4 just because the Z axis seems a bit beefier/more stable. 

I could also wait on the Mono M7, or Phrozen's DLP if they are working on one...

At the very least, I'm going to keep using my M8K in it's "wounded" configuration and will see how prints compare. 

Your thoughts and recommendations?

 

[JeffB]

Replace the LCD if you're sure that's the faulty part.  It's cheaper than a new machine and you won't have to learn a new machine/process.  It also saves you the gut punch of scrapping an expensive machine that works except for one easily replaced component.  As I've found, nobody wants these used machines, especially the lower resolution ones, because a new machine is relatively cheap now days.

Another option...  Buy a Mini-8kS.  Same resolution.  Same company.  Slightly different format (I think), but the same process.

A few weeks ago, I bought an Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra 9k to use as a dedicated printer for resin to brass/nickel silver parts (using castable resin).  Bought it because it has slightly better resolution than my Mini-8K, but looking back on the purchase (and I've yet to use the Mars 4 mind you), buying the 8kS would have been a smarter move. 

Of course the cheaper move would have been just to purchase a second vat for my 8k, but I went with a different machine altogether.  I think in the end, if you're going to have multiple machines lined up for 3D print production, you're probably better off to go with multiples of the same machine, rather than a hodge podge.

Jeff

[Jesse6669]

Replace the LCD if you're sure that's the faulty part. 

Yep.  I'm just printing on it now, it's no huge loss in volume (it has two 3-bay hoppers and a caboose on the build plate.) 

I wouldn't scrap it, I'd basically supplement my workshop with the DLP one--if it can do some jobs "better" than the Mini8K.  But you're right--it's a new learning curve. 
Really just curious how the DLP stacks up...

[JeffB]

Yep.  I'm just printing on it now, it's no huge loss in volume (it has two 3-bay hoppers and a caboose on the build plate.) 

I wouldn't scrap it, I'd basically supplement my workshop with the DLP one--if it can do some jobs "better" than the Mini8K.  But you're right--it's a new learning curve. 
Really just curious how the DLP stacks up...

From all the reviews I've watched on YouTube, it stacks up really well to the higher resolution SLA printers...  Prints are nearly as sharp, or visibly sharper than the sub-28µm printers (depends on the printer of course).

If you're willing to go through the process of learning a new machine, then go for it.  I don't thing you'll be disappointed, but others with first hand experience with both types might have a different POV.

I don't see $100-$150 as a lot of money now days, and if that, plus a little bit of my time would get a good machine 100% again, I'd do it.  Did something along those lines with my Mini-4k and it was worth it.

Jeff

[bbussey]

@Jesse6669 — You could replace the LCD screen for less than the cost of a new printer.  I did that three times on my Photon Mono before moving to the AnyCubic D2.  I wish the D2 had come out sooner, as the quality is far above any prints I ever rendered on the Mono, and it's faster.  I still use the Mono for secondary parts such as freight car payloads and scenery structures.  But I use the D2 for rolling stock and any structures that require fine detail, such as brickwork.  I recommend getting the DLP printer.
 

[robert3985]

If I were in the market for a new printer, and thought that waiting for the Anycubic Mono M7 was an option, I would choose the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 12K instead and get it now.

Then, I'd get a new screen for your Phrozen Mini 8K.

The only advantage that is afforded by a DLP printer nowadays is that they don't have screens, so you don't have to worry about having to replace them.

Yes, the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra is a 12K machine but 14K, 12K, 10K...etc., don't mean anything...it's the size and dimension of the pixel on the LCD and the Voxel in the resin vat that makes a difference, as well as how well your light is collimated and how much light loss there is.

The new machines are the Phrozen Sonic Mighty Revo, and the Anycubic Photo Mono M7 Pro, both of which are 14K machines, but their pixels are rectangular, so effective "resolution" is determined by the rectangular pixels largest dimension...the smaller dimension doesn't mean anything.  The Phrozen's maximum pixel dimension is 24.6 microns (16.7 X 24.6 microns) and the Anycubic's maximum pixel dimension is 24.8 microns (16.8 X 24.8 microns).

The Elegoo's pixels (being a 12K machine) are a different rectangle...being slightly more square than the other two with a maximum pixel dimension of 24 microns (19 X 24 microns)...which means it has slightly better resolution than either the Phorozen or the Anycubic 14K machines.

It has other features which the the other two don't have and it costs significantly less than the other two also.

The one feature it has that the other two don't have, which I believe may be significantly advantageous over the other two, is its "Tilt Release Technology" resin vat.

Additionally, for the list price of $399.00, I'm pretty sure with a resolution at the LCD of 24 microns, your print quality is going to be at least the same as a DLP machine, and maybe even better.

The Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra is getting excellent reviews also with a couple of insignificant caveats...such as there not being a handle on the tilt-top and the vertical format of the front screen...things which have nothing at all to do with print quality.

That's my two bits worth!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Erock482]

Personally, the DLP's don't quite offer enough to be interesting to me yet, granted i'm printing in HO Scale and prefer the larger print volumes.

For me, the Saturn 3 Ultra is what I would buy if getting a new printer, however if you're set on DLP I'd look at the Mars 4 DLP.

I have found I prefer the Elegoo machines over anycubic having now owned both, the amount of settings that are adjustable and not locked down on the elegoo machines makes tuning prints a bit easier

[robert3985]

Personally, the DLP's don't quite offer enough to be interesting to me yet, granted i'm printing in HO Scale and prefer the larger print volumes.

For me, the Saturn 3 Ultra is what I would buy if getting a new printer, however if you're set on DLP I'd look at the Mars 4 DLP.

I have found I prefer the Elegoo machines over anycubic having now owned both, the amount of settings that are adjustable and not locked down on the elegoo machines makes tuning prints a bit easier

I agree that if you're set on a DLP machine, the Elegoo Mars 4 DLP is the one I'd go for over Anycubic's.

If you're interested in ultimate resolution/print quality and not needing a 10" build plate, then the resolution Kings are both the Mars 4 Ultra and the Mars 4 Elegoo 7" printers with 18 micron square pixels. Both of these print better and finer quality than either Elegoo's or Anycubic's DLP printers.  I'd opt for the Ultra with its better build quality and stronger 4-bolt plate attachment/leveling protocol.

Have fun!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore