Fusion Scale Graphics Amtrak Phase I stripes

[nkalanaga]

I ordered two sets of their Amtrak stripe decals, one each of two widths, and tried one to reletter a Kato Budd dome coach.  I wasn't impressed.

The decals look very nice, and the width I used fit the car perfectly.  So far, so good.

I cut the stripes in one long strip, since the white background goes over/under the windows, rather than trying to piece the stripes between the windows, then paint the white.  That works fine with every decal I've ever used, all the way back to Walthers in the 1970s.  Apply, let dry, then trim the wondow openings.

Getting the decal off the paper was interesting, to say the least.  I never could get the film to slide, even after it released from the paper.  Finally, I simply picked up the decal and laid it on the car.  Even with extra water, it didn't want to slide there.  I finally got it lined up.  Apply some Solvaset, and let it dry.

When dry, I tried to cut the windows, with a sharp #11 blade.  When I poked the first opening, the film stretched, and pulled free above and below the opening.  Actually trying to cut the film caused the entire strip to come loose.  The dried decal not only wasn't attached to the car, it pulled free as a neat strip, with the appearance of a piece of kitchen plastic film.  It even stretched like plastic kitchen wrap.  I peeled both sides off and threw them away.

Fusion Scale decals might work fine in larger scales, or where there's no need to disturb the decal after applying, but I won't be ordering any more.

Next weekend I'll try again, with Microscale Phase III stripes, which I have used before.  They take a little more work, as the stripes are shorter, and need to be spliced, but do act like decals, not plastic wrap.

[bman]

Good to know. I've only used their Andersons patch out sheet intended for covered hoppers as I plan to model several of these. I did let them sit in warm water for about 3 times the time I normally would. It was still a little too much like work to get them to slide off the backing. The patch seemed thick at first, but when I was finished and the final top coat applied it has the same appearance as the Atlas Trainman Trall 3 Bay covered hoppers RUSX patched I have. There is just a hint of a white border around  half the patch decal. Since this is a car I run at shows on NTRAK making left turns I didn't sweat it too much. I did order the DJJX logo sheet with all the different color logos. That's next for some high side scrap gons. Wish me luck!

[EspeeGoldenState]

I've used their Union Pacific 2010 BSA decals and didnt seem to have any more of an issue than I have before with Microscale or even Circus City decals.

I wasnt thinking when I was applying the decals and cutting as close to the decal as I should be, but thats my own doing.

[nickelplate759]

I've used those same Amtrak Phase I stripes successfully. 
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=57628.msg793929#msg793929

Some observations:
1. They're definitely not as easy to work with as Microscale stripes - but Microscale doesn't offer Phase I stripes.
2. I had to soak the decals longer than I would with Microscale to get the stripes to slide.  But not too long, or else they'll lose their glue and won't stick to the car.  I had to experiment a bit, and ruined several stripes.  Fortunately, there are plenty on each sheet.
3. The stripes are stiff, and can crease if you let them bunch up.
4. Once you get them in place, leave them be until they are well and truly set.  Then hit them with solvent (I used Microsol), and let that well and truly set up and bone dry.  Then you can cut out the windows.

[peteski]

Not sure if the "glue" (actually release agent which I read is dextrose) has any part in adhesion of the decal.  Some modelers (especially military modelers) actually let the decal image float off the paper while still immersed in the water and then successfully apply them to the model. I read about this technique in FineScale Modeler magazine.

I haven't experimented with that technique because the conventional decal application technique works well for me.  Also, I'm afraid  that if I fish the floating decal out of the water it will curl up and become impossible to apply.

[nkalanaga]

Apparently results vary, not unusual with specialty products.  I'm glad they work for others.  Like I said, they fit the car perfectly, size-wise.

Peteski:  "Curl-up" is why I don't let decals float free as well.  The old Walthers decals could be done that way, but they also have thicker film than most newer decals.  Even with the Walthers I prefer not to do it.  And, yes, I still have a LOT of Walthers decals, and still use them now and then.

[dem34]

Apparently results vary, not unusual with specialty products.  I'm glad they work for others.  Like I said, they fit the car perfectly, size-wise.

Peteski:  "Curl-up" is why I don't let decals float free as well.  The old Walthers decals could be done that way, but they also have thicker film than most newer decals.  Even with the Walthers I prefer not to do it.  And, yes, I still have a LOT of Walthers decals, and still use them now and then.

CMR decals you can also get away with that. And for me its not even curl up. If its anything longer than a number board number its like trying to play operation with a wet noodle.

@EspeeGoldenState, as an aside. good decals you really shouldn't need to be all that precise. But ideally a gloss coat is first applied to give the best chance of decal adherence and a gloss coat after, which levels the surface finish with the clear film of the decal if its still there.