Stripping paint - blasting vs stripper

[Canadian-Atlantic]

I have several dozen cars (HO) that I eventually want to repaint. I'd sooner not mess with a liquid stripper and was wondering if anyone had some suggestions on a safe media, blaster and psi that I could look into?

[Rasputen]

I have an abrasive blast cabinet, but that would be an enormous undertaking to strip dozens of HO cars with it.   Mine was sold by North Coast Prototype Models but I don't think they are around anymore. You will be surprised how much compressed air is consumed by even a small pencil tipped wand. 

Depending on what they have been painted with, I would try Super Clean (Formerly Castrol Super Clean, a degreaser) first.  What's nice about Super Clean is I can leave parts in it for months at a time without fear of harming any plastic.
I use a metal roasting pan that I cover with plastic food wrap to keep the odors down.

I know that's not the help you are looking for, but that's my recommendation.

[Canadian-Atlantic]

I have a large compressor so volume wouldn't a problem.  I'll look Into superclean but would still prefer a dry option.

[turbowhiz]

Its been a number of years for me since I've stripped a model, but the last time I did one I had good success using a Paasche air eraser at high pressure (at max or maybe even a few PSI above the max 75 psi rating of the tool.. I recall ~90 PSI) using grocery store baking soda as media. I used this technique to strip kato factory paint (which at least from my resources at the time was notoriously tricky to strip, not sure if any TRW asshats here have a better secret sauce for this) from a HO scale SD-40, and the process was highly successful as I recall. Would be my go-to if/when I need to do it again, over chemical options I'd experimented with previously. Definitely a standard airbrush compressor isn't up to this job, but a modest conventional compressor was no trouble. An air dryer is probably a useful if not required component though to keep clogs at bay.

[CRR Chase]

Have not done, but have watched a friend strip paint with baking soda as media… it does the trick… not sure on air ratings… liquid options are 90+ alcohol.. trick for Kato is to keep the alcohol on the paint while you scrub… at least in my experience… I use a parts washer for gun parts for this… I’m N scale though..

My friend had the pasche media blaster air brush… and we didn’t use a booth… we just went outside, he did have a larger compressor… nice thing about baking soda is it’s relatively cheap and at washes away after the next rain.

[Canadian-Atlantic]

Thank you @xturbowhiz & @CRR Chase I didn't realize Pasche made one. I was thinking I may have to look at something automotive related which would be overkill. I should of also mentioned that I be doing it outside so no need for a booth.

[nickelplate759]

Have not done, but have watched a friend strip paint with baking soda as media… it does the trick… not sure on air ratings… liquid options are 90+ alcohol.. trick for Kato is to keep the alcohol on the paint while you scrub… at least in my experience… I use a parts washer for gun parts for this… I’m N scale though..

My friend had the pasche media blaster air brush… and we didn’t use a booth… we just went outside, he did have a larger compressor… nice thing about baking soda is it’s relatively cheap and at washes away after the next rain.

Any tips on using baking soda for this?  Do you just buy a box of Arm & Hammer and use that?  Any clogging issues using baking soda with the Paasche tool?

I'm in Arizona, so humidity is rarely an issue.

[Lemosteam]

Thank you @xturbowhiz & @CRR Chase I didn't realize Pasche made one. I was thinking I may have to look at something automotive related which would be overkill. I should of also mentioned that I be doing it outside so no need for a booth.

I have a similar air eraser to the Pasche, and keep in mind that the working area is very small, i.e. about 1/8" diameter blast area, so even on an N Scale model it would take, in my opinion, too long to clean off anything completely.  It would be downright monotonous for a group of cars.

I use mine with the super fine aluminum oxide on 3D printed parts, and made my own inside blast cabinet using silicone sealed storage box and sweatshirt sleeve cutoffs with large plumbing ring holes in the side.

As much as I hate liquids like you (see my rants about resin printing or casting, mixing etc.) soaking is just a faster and better option. I once left 8 Lima heavyweights in a large Vlasic pickle jar with 91% IPA for 3 months with no ill effects to the model. I would swirl the jar once in a while to remove paint.  When I was ready to work on the cars, I used and ultrasonic brush to clean the nooks and crannies and stubborn areas in warm water over a sink.  Then I strained the IPA in the jar for the next batch.

[CRR Chase]

Any tips on using baking soda for this?  Do you just buy a box of Arm & Hammer and use that?  Any clogging issues using baking soda with the Paasche tool?

I'm in Arizona, so humidity is rarely an issue.

Nah, he just loaded the hopper with the baking soda, i remember him shaking the hopper to settle the baking soda.. It wasn't a perfect science, but it did a good job.