Author Topic: Metal Wheel Sets  (Read 1782 times)

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peteski

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Re: Metal Wheel Sets
« Reply #15 on: November 03, 2023, 09:25:25 PM »
0
Quick Update:

I picked up the ESM .540" (33" wheel) axles. With the IM trucks, it was mentioned how they, in some cases, had slightly "warped" frames which resulted in inconsistent journal-to-journal spacing. What I was able to do was use the .540 axle on the narrow side and the .553 axle on the wide  side. It produced much better results with that combo than just the .553 in both trucks. Where the spacing is better (read about the same), the .540 axle works better even though it is a wee bit loose in the truck. The .540 axle equipped trucks roll better than the .540/.553 combo. I tested this by  set up a small incline using Kato Unitrack to measure how far the car rolls. The IM cars (Reefers/Boxcars) are all weighted to NMRA specs, FWIW.

I think I would have rather have tried to bent out the IM frames to accept the same axle length on both ends.  The different axle lengths might get confusing in the future if you have to remove the wheelsets for whatever reason (after you forget what you did).
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BruceStikkers

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Re: Metal Wheel Sets
« Reply #16 on: November 04, 2023, 11:52:18 AM »
+3
Over the years I have tried many wheel sets and have settled on ESM as the best. That is all I buy now.

Bruce Stikkers
St. Joseph, IL

tehachapifan

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Re: Metal Wheel Sets
« Reply #17 on: November 04, 2023, 05:02:54 PM »
+1
Over the years I have tried many wheel sets and have settled on ESM as the best. That is all I buy now.

Bruce Stikkers
St. Joseph, IL

Same.

Mike Madonna

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Re: Metal Wheel Sets
« Reply #18 on: November 04, 2023, 07:56:41 PM »
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I think I would have rather have tried to bent out the IM frames to accept the same axle length on both ends.  The different axle lengths might get confusing in the future if you have to remove the wheelsets for whatever reason (after you forget what you did).

Had the same thought process. The result? Bent one truck and the side frame basically returned to the original shape. Tried another one and snapped it clean. I have these "mixed wheel" cars separated. I will note in my "Roster List" that they have "ESM/FVM" wheels....
Mike
SOUTHERN PACIFIC Coast Division 1953
Santa Margarita Sub

nkalanaga

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Re: Metal Wheel Sets
« Reply #19 on: November 05, 2023, 01:04:46 AM »
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Fresh IM truck frames can be bent easily.  Old ones, and I have some very old ones, tend to be brittle.
N Kalanaga
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bbussey

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Re: Metal Wheel Sets
« Reply #20 on: November 05, 2023, 07:17:31 AM »
+5
On the IM AAR 40’ boxcars, I would upgrade the trucks to either Atlas Barber S-2a, Atlas/BLMA ASF A-3, Atlas/BLMA ASF Ride Control or ESM Ride Control and throw the original trucks away, as the cars ride too high since they were designed originally to clear the swing of truck-mounted couplers. While the Barber trucks aren’t yet available separately, they can be poached from the Atlas PS-1. Most PS-1 40’ boxcars were delivered with ASF A-3 trucks, so swapping in the ex-BLMA trucks (which are available separately) frees up the Barber trucks for upgrading (lowering) other rolling stock. It saves the effort of having to file down the IM bolsters.
Bryan Busséy
NHRHTA #2246
NSE #1117
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mmagliaro

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Re: Metal Wheel Sets
« Reply #21 on: November 06, 2023, 12:43:12 AM »
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I have played that trick of bending a sideframe a little to make a wheelset roll better.  My experience is that sooner or later, it will always return to its original position.  It may not happen today, maybe not tomorrow, but soon and for the rest of its life (apologies to Humphrey Bogart).

You need to permanently deform it, not just bend it.  Find a spot on the inside of the sideframe where it won't show, make a small "scar" across the plastic with a soldering iron and bend the bit of sideframe so that it bends at that scarred joint while it is still hot.  This permanently reshapes the plastic, rather than just bending it, which is essentially just stretching it.   This also reduces the risk of snapping the plastic, because it will give at the weakest point, where your scar is.  This always seems to work much better for me.  It's easier if you clamp the think in a small vise while you do this, so you can hit it with the soldering iron and pull on the part at the same time, then hold it while the plastic cools so it stays in its new position.

nkalanaga

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Re: Metal Wheel Sets
« Reply #22 on: November 06, 2023, 12:55:42 AM »
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Most of my Intermountain boxcars have started as kits, so I built a jig to make filing the bolsters simple.
N Kalanaga
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