Yes, that was a mistake. I fixed it. I suspect that this is also what JMaurer1 meant. If there is a silver solder, its melting temperature would be higher than what solder iron can produce.
Good to know that using elevated soldering temperatures does nto cause any plastic tie melting.
Of course "elevated soldering temperatures" will melt plastic ties...but, I didn't write anything about "elevated soldering temperatures".
My statement was (and is) "I have no problems whatsoever melting plastic ties...", not "...using elevated soldering temperatures does nto cause any plastic tie melting."
This means that with the proper technique, the proper solder and the proper flux, I can get on and off the joint extremely quickly before any ties get hot enough to melt. If my flux is sh!t, if the rails aren't clean, if the tip temp is too low, if I'm on the solder joint too long, if the tip is dirty, if the tip isn't tinned, if the tip is the wrong shape...then any of those can cause ties to melt.
To make sure that my rail joints and feeder joints are accomplished without worries about melting ties, I use the right wattage of iron, the right tip shape, clean and tin the tip before each and every solder joint, de-grease and de-oxidize both rails and PCB ties before soldering or tinning, and use Superior No.30 Supersafe Soldering Flux. I also watch the joint carefully during soldering, and get off the joint as soon after the solder melts as I can.
Additionally, just to ensure that my ties don't melt when soldering rail joints, I trim the spacers under four ties on either side of the joint and slide them away from the cut ends of the rails, do my soldering, then slide the ties back into place after the rails have cooled sufficiently. That's good technique, and eliminates any need to come back later and side modified ties under the rail joiner, thus retaining ALL of the ties' cast-on tie plate and spike head detailing and saving time too.
Photo (1) - Cutting the spacers between ties and sliding them away from the rail ends where rail joiners will be soldered:
Photo (2) - Cut-down rail joiners soldered and ties slid back into place. No loss of tie details due to melting where tracks are joined using my old Realistic 35W iron with wedge tip:
Photo (3) - 22AWG solid copper feeders soldered to the rail foot between ties with no plastic tie meltage whatsoever using American Beauty 250W Resistance Soldering Station & Tweezers:
The right tools, right techniques and best materials make for trouble-free track soldering.
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
