Train-Worx 85' TOFC Coupler

[GM50 4164]

I have a TW 85' TOFC that the couplers have broke on each end and am needing help figuring out what MT couple I need in order to repair. Also, any idea how to remove from coupler box from frame? I don't see any release.

[nkalanaga]

I have a few of these cars, and, looking at one, I suspect that it's a Micro-Trains #1019, the same coupler used on their 89' TOFC cars.

As for getting the old one off, the only thing I can think of is that the box is held on with a pin, cast into the body.  The usual cover is part of the body, there's a pin cast as part of that, and the box goes over the pin.

If that's the case, some very careful prying should get the box off, and you can replace the coupler.

Mine came with a very nice instruction sheet on how to body-mount the couplers - intended for their auto parts cars!  No help on the TOFC car at all.

[Bendtracker1]

You could always try contacting Pat at Trainworx and see what he has to say?
He's always been helpful with some of my questions.

[jagged ben]

It looks to me like they are held it by a screw from the top.  Meaning, unfortunately, that you'll have to very carefully remove the whole plastic top deck to acces the screw.  Not a good design.  The deck seems to be glued down, although on the example of mine that I looked at the edges had a bit of play in the middle of the car that might allow careful prying to remove it.

I suppose an alternative might be to carefully cut or drill from the top in the exact location to uncover the screw head, then cover up the wound with patching and weathering or a relocated trailer hitch or something.

[nkalanaga]

That IS a bad design.  I never noticed that the deck wasn't part of the frame.

[peteski]

Yes, I can confirm that the coupler screw head (flat head, Philips) is hidden under the deck.  Not an optimal design for being able to replace the coupler, but I can see why they did that.

I was able to unglue the deck (just tried on one end) by holding the car in the middle, from the bottom side with one hand, while grasping the edges of the deck on the car's end using my thumb and index finger of the other hand from the top. I then wiggled the deck until the glue joint under the deck  released.  A blob of CA is used to hold the deck to the metal frame and it wasn't the glue that let go, but the paint under the glue separated from the metal frame.  I suspect there are similar blobs of glue in the middle and on the other end. I guess if you keep on doing the same thing for every joint, you can totally separate the plastic deck from the metal frame and have full access to the coupler screws.

This wouldn't be a bad design if the deck was not glued on. For example similar cars made by MTL also have metal frame and plastic deck, but the deck simply snaps onto the frame, so it can easily be removed and reinstalled. No glue required.  That's one of the things I like about both MTL and Kato - they use glue-less design for their models. Makes it a pleasure to service or custom paint.