Author Topic: Mill Creek HOn30  (Read 106345 times)

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timwatson

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Re: Mill Creek HOn30
« Reply #705 on: September 23, 2022, 03:24:22 PM »
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Maybe I'll shovel a few layouts out of the way.  :scared:

Feel free to shovel toward my house!
Tim Watson
My pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nscalerail/sets/

Technology, new ideas and model railroading.

Chris333

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Re: Mill Creek HOn30
« Reply #706 on: September 24, 2022, 03:40:11 AM »
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sorry, 10" 8K printer

Jeff did you get the x10-8K or did you upgrade another printer?

motofavorite

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Re: Mill Creek HOn30
« Reply #707 on: September 25, 2022, 09:12:00 PM »
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I built a whole new tender for this old thing


Awesome looking tender. What trucks are those?

Chris333

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Re: Mill Creek HOn30
« Reply #708 on: September 25, 2022, 09:30:16 PM »
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My own trucks that take Kato caboose truck pickup strips. All the files here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5479419

motofavorite

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Re: Mill Creek HOn30
« Reply #709 on: September 27, 2022, 06:05:37 PM »
+1
Thank you for sharing them. The locomotive reminds me of an S.A.R. NG7. The WDLR 2-6-2 could be a good starting point.

Erock482

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Re: Mill Creek HOn30
« Reply #710 on: September 28, 2022, 01:07:09 PM »
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lol

I tried everything. See one day I had a print and build plate hanging on the drip bracket and pressed the print button. The head came down and hit that breaking the bracket (just resin) the stepper started grinding.

Next time a print failed I:

Replaced the FEP
Re-leveled the build plate.

Prints failed. They would pull from their supports. The raft and supports would be on the build plate the rest on the FEP. These were files that never left the USB stick and printed fine a few days before. So I:
Did the light test.
Took it apart and made sure all the LED were lit, they were.
Checked the power supply, it was 24Volts.

New FEP, new level, prints failed. Thought the Z screw or motor could be bad:
Put the old stepper and lead screw back in. No change (put other screw back in)

I tried to re-support the model with twice as many supports, no good.

Asked someone else what their settings were. Changed to those (just barely different than my settings) and now somehow the print worked.

For a few days till yesterday. Ordered a 8K.

Checked the machine to make sure the Z rail was square, it was. Don't forget I turned my 4K into a jack stand. I beefed up the bottom base with an extra 1/4" aluminum plate. Put a brace on the head. Put a big wrap around brace from the Z rail to the base.

It is much better now, but once I set it about 2 years ago it was fine, I never changed a thing. So now when I print 10 of the same print over and over and 1 out of 10 fails it can't be my settings. A new screen is $100, who knows what a mother costs. Plus I have a few very tiny burnt out pixels.

I've been messing with the UV Power setting on my Mono X lately, does the mini 4K have a similar feature? Perhaps bumping the UV power up would remedy the issue?

Chris333

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Re: Mill Creek HOn30
« Reply #711 on: September 28, 2022, 03:19:58 PM »
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Is that something that is on the screen menu?

Erock482

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Re: Mill Creek HOn30
« Reply #712 on: September 28, 2022, 04:52:28 PM »
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Yes, well atleast it is on the mono X, its located in the menu that has controls for manually adjusting build plate height or setting up a test exposure. On the mono when you enter the settings menu there's a gear wheel that when you tap that icon it allows you to adjust the UV strength percentage. My mono came at 100% however I've hear that it can vary what the setting was from the factory. I'm currently running some exposure tests as I step down the power to see if I can help eliminate some blooming on finer parts I'm experiencing