I'm using them (Trix curved) a lot on my logging modules, and with the Kato 11-105 critters - that don't have a minimum flange but aren't pizza cutters either. Along with the Atlas Shay and 4-4-0. I convert them over to manual with a switch throw and also solder jumpers to the points from the stock rail to make sure the rivets don't fail in contact.
Those trucks, when used as intended, equalize wonderfully and the wheel drops slightly going through the frog to contact it.
The other thing you can do to a plastic-frog turnout is file/sand the frog slightly lower, that works too....
Another one of those things that shouldn't probably work but actually does in practice. I'll admit I didn't think it would work at first. And I'm just creeping through those turnouts, too.
Marklin does the same thing on their Z curved turnout, that's on my Nn3 logging trackage and will be running at Altoona. Same deal, the Rokuhan flanges are smaller than Marklin, the wheel drops a hair, and if the strips are reasonably clean, crawls right through it at about a walk.
Back to Katos - I've now got a dead spot on one of mine on the straight route, probably due to the sliding contacts on the inside of the turnout that route track power. Not a big fan. I didn't do major jumper surgery on them before installation, probably should have, because it's the stock rail between the frog and the points that came up lame. In Nn3 I heavily jumpered the very similar Rokuhan Z design before I installed and it's been quite reliable so far. But all those sliding contact parts inside the roadbed, not a fan, not a fan at all. I made sure not to glue down those Kato turnouts, but I'll not repair it until I get the modules back from Altoona and can rip that switch out. I only use Katos where I need the joiners to hit another T-trak module, everyplace else it's Peco 55 electrofrog with hand-throws.
