Weekend Update 3/27/22

[garethashenden]

The 2mm wheels do have a tread taper, 3 degrees. The 2mm track and wheel standards work very well together and have for decades. If you were to regauge them for N, I doubt they’d work well with commercial turnout. There’s way too much slop in the NMRA standards, and a lot of turnouts aren’t even made to those. If you’re hand laying track it’s straightforward to get them to work. Although I haven’t done it at a large scale, only test pieces.

[Mike Madonna]

Mike,

Welllll...I've got my digital calipers and some Code 55 rail handy, sooo let's see....it's exactly .055" tall, the railhead is .0235" wide, the railfoot is .0555" wide. 

That converts to prototype measurements of 8.8" tall, railhead width of 3.76", and a railfoot width of 8.88"

The heaviest normal rail I could find spec's on was 155 lb. rail, which is 8" tall, railhead width of 3" and a railfoot width of 6.75"

That makes Code 55 for N-scale larger in all dimensions than any prototype rail I can find specs on.

I started making turnout before Fast Tracks was even thought of, so I use printed diagrams to build all of my turnouts on, which I have been doing since the early 1980's.

However, I don't believe Code 55 rail will fit in a Fast Tracks Code 55 fixture since the width of Code 55's railfoot is wider than Code 40 and their fixtures rely on the railfoot width for proper registering. 

On the other hand, Code 40 rail will definitely flop around in their Code 55 fixture, but with verrrrry imprecise registration, which you do not want.

Truthfully, it only takes 3 turnouts to learn how to get them both functional and looking good.  I don't need fixtures of any kind and neither does 99% of anybody else.  Making turnouts is not rocket science and with an NMRA Standards Gage, two or three 3-point gauges to hold your rails in gauge and instructions from Youtube or from myriad other sources...and good solder & flux (I have my preferences for solder and flux) and a 35 watt iron, stand, tinning solution and sponge (or equivalent)...you should have very few problems and no problems that won't be simple to figure out.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

Robert,
Thanks for the quick reply and thorough explanation.
You've mentioned in the past about using H&N products for soldering hand laid track/turnouts. I believe you have stated their "96/4 Silver Solid Wire Solder (.31") as your choice for solder. Regarding flux, it was the "Superior No. 30 Supersafe". My question would be; what was your preference, gel, liquid or paste?
As always, thanks in advance!

[ednadolski]

Photo (4) - The same Key Big Boy pulling a PFE Reefer Block upgrade around Echo Curve on its way to Green River after refueling at the Echo Coaling Tower...on Rail Craft Code 55 flex:

Hi @robert3985, I was just wondering (inquiring mind, y'know, lol)... what is the radius for the curve in that pic? It has a really nice flow to it.

Ed

[robert3985]

Robert,
Thanks for the quick reply and thorough explanation.
You've mentioned in the past about using H&N products for soldering hand laid track/turnouts. I believe you have stated their "96/4 Silver Solid Wire Solder (.31") as your choice for solder. Regarding flux, it was the "Superior No. 30 Supersafe". My question would be; what was your preference, gel, liquid or paste?
As always, thanks in advance!

Mike,

I prefer the gel, but...after a few years, it turns into liquid and the liquid works great too.

There have been some instances I've thought the paste would work best, just because it can be more exactly positioned, but I've never felt the need was enough to order any.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[robert3985]

Hi @robert3985, I was just wondering (inquiring mind, y'know, lol)... what is the radius for the curve in that pic? It has a really nice flow to it.

Ed

Ed,

Since this curve was planned as photogenic curve and the natural topography of the prototype area lends itself very well to good, low camera placement, I went to special pains to make the curves as smooth as I could make them on both mainlines.  That meant some unconventional thinking, so I fiddled around with my clearances (mainly providing enough room for Big Boys being coaled up at the Echo Tower with room on the passing siding for another train to pass all on the east-bound main and the Lincoln Highway underpass further east...and the two mainlines coming back together near the underpass.)

The minimum radius on the east-bound mainline is a short section that has a radius of 27", with a large spiral curve from the Echo Tower to that short section, then another large spiral curve from there to the straight near the Lincoln Highway Underpass further east.  The west-bound mainline gets the same treatment, but with a short section near the middle of the curve that is the minimum radius of 30" for that section of track.

Cadrail really helped when laying out the track centerlines and getting the curves "just right" for the space I had.

Then, I superelevated the curves, which makes them even smoother in operation.

Here's a link to my YouTube video of passenger trains traversing both curves at a show several years ago...

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Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Mike Madonna]

Mike,

I prefer the gel, but...after a few years, it turns into liquid and the liquid works great too.

There have been some instances I've thought the paste would work best, just because it can be more exactly positioned, but I've never felt the need was enough to order any.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

Robert,
Placed an order with H&N, should be here this week...
Again, I thank you