CGW/MILW ribs for FVW coach - .2mm etch sheet project 1

[Sokramiketes]

Jason-

I’m torn. First, your artwork looks good if you continue down this path. However, how do you plan to glue the ribs to the car side?

If you do some half etch detail on them, they are going to have a curl. Superglue will be messy. Thinned Barge Cement (With MEK) might work. With more MEK to then glue it to the car side.

But man, styrene is so much easier to glue to the styrene car side.

If you’re not etching the ribs to the right spacing so you can apply together, I’m not sure what the advantage is here.

I would do .010 styrene rod and call it a day. The solvent cement helps meld it to the car side. Another square strip on the bottom and you’re done in about 30 mins.

This one was supposed to be a MILW car, but I used .012 and it’s too big. Looks a little better in maroon than bright orange, so I did CGW on it. Someday I’ll do a better one with slightly smaller diameter ribs.

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[peteski]

Also at the length these will be there will likely be different contraction/expansion taking place between the brass and plastic, possibly ungluing the brass rib piece.

[wcfn100]

This one was supposed to be a MILW car, but I used .012 and it’s too big. Looks a little better in maroon than bright orange, so I did CGW on it. Someday I’ll do a better one with slightly smaller diameter ribs.

(Attachment Link)

I'll get to the rest later after the kiddos go to bed, but for now - there's no way those are .012"!  Are you positive?

Jason

[Sokramiketes]

Also at the length these will be there will likely be different contraction/expansion taking place between the brass and plastic, possibly ungluing the brass rib piece.

The HO guys use thinned Barge cement as the glue of choice for brass etched tread plate on styrene decks.  It seems to have enough give to handle the expansion, certainly better than brittle super glue.  I've started using it for brass ladders and running boards.

[Sokramiketes]

I'll get to the rest later after the kiddos go to bed, but for now - there's no way those are .012"!  Are you positive?

Jason

Well, looking at the stock of Plastruct, it was probably .015". Either way I have a mental note to use .010" next time.

Your 3" rib would be .0187" wide, but certainly not stick out that far.  And I think it is the protrusion that is the thing that catches the most light on the model.

[wcfn100]

So to maybe answer the question 'Why etch?".

First of all, it's not as if I haven't thought of several ways to try and tackle this with styrene.  I think I'm going try this route for three reasons.  First, why not?  I was already planning a sheet of .2mm to etch.  I'll be posting a few of the other projects in the future.  So lets just see how it looks and second, at the same time I can get some extra details like the doors done.  But I think what makes me really want to try this is that because of the style and lines of the car, and knowing that I wont get the exact shape of the rib, I want something that's super clean.  No wavy edges or glue softening of the styrene etc...

Maybe I'm over thinking this.    Wouldn't be the first time.

I do like the idea that the glue will soften the styrene rod so it will flatten a bit.  I hadn't thought of that.  Right now my top styrene method would involve using a scribe to make a grove in the car side and lay a piece of rod in the grove.

Jason

[skytop35]

  Right now my top styrene method would involve using a scribe to make a grove in the car side and lay a piece of rod in the grove.

Jason

I like this idea.

[Sokramiketes]

One side of the car shown had scribed lines done first. One of those micro mark tools that removes material, not just pushes it away.

It wasn’t as clean as I hopped, with some tear out and depth issues.

Surface styrene ended up cleaner. For me.  You might have better luck.

Milling a slot could be good.

[SkipGear]

To do your scribing, if you go that way....look to the Gundam and Armor modelers. Mr. Hobby and Trumpeter make model chisels in various shapes and sizes. They are mainly used for cleaning, detailing or adding panel lines to models. You can get square, round and diamond chisels depending on the shape you need to achieve.

Scribe with a diamond shape which will give you a V-groove cut, then place a quarter round in the groove to get your rib.

[u18b]

How would you glue a batten without the glue showing?

MEK?

[wcfn100]

So just an update.  I had hoped to do the etching part of the project without having to cut up the model but it just wasn't feasible.  I needed to get in and see how the interior door and the bulkhead all fit inside so I started the process of opening up the vestibule.  The strips at the bottom of the side doors are just left in place until I'm closer to finished.



I think the plan is to file back the interior insert .020" and add a new bulkhead.  The etched end door would sit behind that.

Jason