Mrc power pack

[mmagliaro]

I just drill all those security screws right out of there, and then when I put it back together, I use regular screws.
With the security pin in the middle of the torx hole, it can be a pain because it makes the drill bit want to "walk", but
eventually, you can power through and drill it out.

Once you are inside, we can see what you have holding that switch in.

[peteski]

Once you are inside, we can see what you have holding that switch in.

I suspect it  was "heat welded" onto plastic posts molded inside the case. Well we still don't know which throttle we are troubleshooting. Nevermind what I  wrote if it has a metal case. 

[Point353]

I suspect it  was "heat welded" onto plastic posts molded inside the case. Well we still don't know which throttle we are troubleshooting. Nevermind what I  wrote if it has a metal case. 

In some MRC packs, the direction switch is mounted to the PC board, which is then attached to the case:



Others, as you mentioned, have it mounted to plastic posts, as shown in this photo of a 2500 by mmagliaro:

[peteski]

Since the switch "unglued" and fell in, I doubt it is mounted on the PC board.    But this has become interesting thread on the design of various MRC power packs. 

[NtheBasement]

There's always ebay; lots of old DC transformers sitting around out there.

[kgreen]

Its a Tech two railmaster 2400

[Point353]

Its a Tech two railmaster 2400

Then it's a tamper-resistant type Torx screw.
Therefore, you can:
1) get a screwdriver for that type of screw, such as these: http://intl.bondhus.com/pages/tamper-resistant-torx3
2) or try to drill out the center pin and then use a standard Torx screwdriver.
3) or maybe try the following method: https://www.instructables.com/id/Removing-Security-Torx-Star-Screw-with-a-Flathea/

[kgreen]

Thanks for your replies  Kirk

[mmagliaro]

I would bet that your 2400 has similar screws and a similar switch mount to the 2500 that I opened (the photo I took of the 2500, already posted in this thread).  I wish I could remember how I opened that one, but I can't.   I *think* I drilled out the security pins on the screws and used a Torx to get them out, and then replaced them with regular screws, because that's just what I think I would do, knowing myself.

Once you get in there, take photos so we can see what's broken.  If one or both of the plastic studs broke off the case and the switch is flopping around, I know what I would do.  I'd say, "to heck with esthetics", and I'd just drill two small holes right through the case, and then fit something like 4-40 bolts and nuts to mount the switch to the case again.  Actually, it would not look bad.  You'd see two screws on the front of the case on either side of the switch, but so what?  You could try gluing the broken plastic post back onto the case with liquid solvent cement, and if the case is made of a plastic that will melt/fuse, it might work. 

But I would use screws. 

[Doug G.]

I have had both the 2400 and 2500 apart and they are held together the same way - with six security Torx screws. I just use the same screws to put them back together since I already have the Torx driver. And yes, you need a fairly long-shanked Torx driver since four of the screws are recessed pretty good.

The 2400 is very simple compared to the 2500 since there's no momentum circuitry. No circuit board. It's basically like the earlier MRC packs except for the pot instead of a rheostat.

If I remember correctly, the switches are held in the same way on both.

Doug