New 3D Systems Clear resin

[Lemosteam]

Not sure if it can be used with the Anycubic, but think of the possibilities for light pipes and glass (no more Micro Crystal Clear?).

https://www2.3dsystems.com/webmail/1004/952699351/46ab298ede5ebd79a49b22a3655997e7e8687456dc3dc4eef172ab2308a9d5c3

[rodsup9000]

 I bought 500ml bottle of Anycubic clear. Should be here tomorrow. I'll post how well it works, once I have something cast in it.

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/ANYCUBIC-355-410nm-UV-Sensitive-Resin-for-LCD-SLA-3D-Printer-Photon-US-STOCK/263863688586?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=563234645521&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[AlwaysSolutions]

I've got a bottle of Monocure 3D Rapid Clear and plan on doing light pipes and windows with it.  After cleanup it has a slight frosted nature to it but I'm betting with a blast of gloss paint it would be crystal clear.  I did some tests with gloopy window glazing as a clear coat and it was very promising, but it really needs to be an even coating (airbrush or rattle can) otherwise the uneven coating is too obvious.  Maybe I can get a spray sample done today to see what happens.

Edit: attaching a quick test with Testors Clear rattle can.  Image from left to right - untreated, middle and right after two coats of clear.  I'm thinking with an airbrush the results would be a little better. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[haasmarc]

Maybe a coat of Future.  The airplane guys use it on canopies to make them really clear.

I have some of the Monocure clear as well but haven't tried it yet.

[Lemosteam]

Any new or improved results with the clear resins?

[bnsfdash8]

Any issues with yellowing after clear coating?

[AlwaysSolutions]

Any issues with yellowing after clear coating?

Been awhile since I've played with the clear but I was able to find these pieces and no noticeable yellowing so far.  I need to do some more experimenting but with the holidays I've been side-tracked.  Time to get back to it!

Mike

[narrowminded]

Edit: attaching a quick test with Testors Clear rattle can.  Image from left to right - untreated, middle and right after two coats of clear.  I'm thinking with an airbrush the results would be a little better. (Attachment Link)

If it really mattered, a real fine wet sand (1200?) then polish might be all you need.  And you could still clear coat it and buff that if just polishing wasn't quite good enough.

[AlwaysSolutions]

If it really mattered, a real fine wet sand (1200?) then polish might be all you need.  And you could still clear coat it and buff that if just polishing wasn't quite good enough.

Yeah you're probably right on that - for quality window glass with this stuff the surface has to have practically zero imperfections, the front and back sides of the pane should also be in parallel planes otherwise you get a lens effect that distorts and diffusion.  For other applications (custom light tunnel/tube, for example) I think this material is on point.  That's actually the next thing I want to test - perhaps this weekend...

[Lemosteam]

Wondering if anyone has had any success with clear prints?  Photos?

[AlwaysSolutions]

I've made a successful light pipe for my Little Joe.  It's probably a little hard to tell exactly what's going on here, but essentially I have the clear light pipe threaded through a black shroud/mount which helps mask light leakage and secure the pipe.  I mount that piece to the inside of the shell so everything is secure.  The alignment is such that when I close the shell, the cavity on the engine side of the light pipe (middle pic, right side, squarish looking area) covers the LED and it shines right into the light pipe which makes for a happy result!  Haven't perfected windows though.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[Lemosteam]

Nice solution!

[wazzou]

Nice solution!

I see what you did there.  ^^^   

[Lemosteam]

I see what you did there.  ^^^   

Ha!  Seriously accidental.  But it works!

[Mark W]

This week I started a collaboration project with Brett Isaacs experimenting with clear resin. 


https://i.imgur.com/NcuDPQi.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/ZXpcz23.jpg

This is Anycubic clear, and is quite frosty out of the printer, however once coated with Mr. Color's UV Cut, they clear right up!  Printed at .05 layers and I did not pre-polsih the inside.  That's the only reason lines can be seen toward the top.  Next test will be to polish both inside and out, and I expect to remove stepping lines completely. 

It also seems that primer and a masking coat will be required to make the non-window areas of a clear print opaque.