Notes on CP 9516

[James Costello]

I don't find the micro-mark tool to be as good as a new (ie, sharp) chisel blade.

I always start a new loco with a new blade... but I'm going to need to look into sharpening them.

[GaryHinshaw]

Is this the Micro-Mark tool we're talking about?  This doesn't seem to be sharp enough to be a chisel, from the picture.  Is that what you mean JC?

The grab that's really going to be a b!^ch to deal with is the over-window grab on the GE units with high number boards.  There's no space to get a clean line on it between the gasket and the number board, though a 2mm made might just fit.

[James Costello]

Yeah, thats the one I was talking about... definitely not sharp enough IMO.

That grab shouldn't be too hard Gary, try a new #11 instead of the chisel and work our way in from the outside of the cab.

I know what you mean though... I've wondered about grinding down the chisels to get a smaller face. The top of the pilots between the coupler box and the anti-climber is often a PITA.

BTW, you should send you photos to Craig and get them up at the BLMA gallery.

[Sokramiketes]

The Micro-Mark tool is plenty sharp to carve plastic grabs.  Though you still need to take passes and can't do it in one fell swoop.  I still prefer a #11 blade though since I have more control (practice) with it. 

[mcjaco]

I change out my blades for every loco.  I have one film cannister of new blades, and one for old blades.  I need to look into sharpening the old ones, or relegating them to other projects.

I still like my #11 blades the best.  Multiple passes is the best way.  At least for me. 

[Shawnb426]

First off, what scale is this locomotive ?  I see no scale call out what so ever.  2nd, this is an outstanding highly detailed locomotive, but was wondering where are the MU cables (front & rear).
Thank You,
Shawn
"BET ON A VET"

[James Costello]

One of Gary's N Scale works of art....

[GaryHinshaw]

Wow, 9 years later, this is still the only loco I've ever detailed...    I keep thinking I'll come up with a quick & easy way to improve stock hand rails before taking on the next project, but layout work (and life) have taken precedent.

As James notes, it is indeed N scale.  I guess when I posted this, Railwire was almost exclusively N, so it didn't even occur to me that I didn't specify it in the OP.  Also, I have no idea what happened to the MU cables.   

[ednadolski]

... a quick & easy way to improve stock hand rails ...

Best way I've found: 




Seriously tho... aren't the handrails on the new Scale Trains Rivet-Counters better than previous generations?  (I don't have any to compare).

Ed

[Lemosteam]

@GaryHinshaw which part of the handrails do you object to?  The handrail, or the stanchions, or both?

if the stanchions are OK has anyone tried snipping off the rail between them and drilling a new hole for wire to be fed through the stanchions?

[peteski]

@GaryHinshaw which part of the handrails do you object to?  The handrail, or the stanchions, or both?

if the stanchions are OK has anyone tried snipping off the rail between them and drilling a new hole for wire to be fed through the stanchions?

As I see it, it's both.  If the handrail was replaced by scale size wire, that would even exaggerate the problem.  It would look like stanchions made of 4x6 lumber with scale thin railing.

[ednadolski]

if the stanchions are OK has anyone tried snipping off the rail between them and drilling a new hole for wire to be fed through the stanchions?

Plastic stanchions are in general pretty oversized.  However, accurately drilling any kind of small hole thru them is quite a tall order.  JMHO, it would be easier overall to fabricate handrails using the GMM brass stanchions and PB wire.

But in some ways it becomes like a game of dominoes.  You fix the handrails, then the grabirons look too big.  You fix the grabirons, then the cut levers look too big.   On and on... and we haven't even gotten to the couplers yet.   

Ed

[GaryHinshaw]

I agree that it's both the stanchions and the railings (and that it's a bit of an arm's race once you start down that path...)  Long ago I looked into making etched railings that could be assembled quickly:

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=23436.msg226251#msg226251

but I never found a design that worked well with the existing Kato walkways, so I put that on the back burner.   Now I'm starting to wonder if it would be feasible to design a new walkway for 3d printing that would be (re)designed to accept an etched stanchion/railing system more easily.   Hmm.

[Lemosteam]

I agree that it's both the stanchions and the railings (and that it's a bit of an arm's race once you start down that path...)  Long ago I looked into making etched railings that could be assembled quickly:

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=23436.msg226251#msg226251

but I never found a design that worked well with the existing Kato walkways, so I put that on the back burner.   Now I'm starting to wonder if it would be feasible to design a new walkway for 3d printing that would be (re)designed to accept an etched stanchion/railing system more easily.   Hmm.

Yes, of course it could.  If you have a complete etch design (.dxf) that could be rendered accurately in 3D (which is what I do when I design my etches) the interface to a printed replacement walkway is feasible, but it may force design changes in the etch, i.e. robust attachment scheme to the printed walkway, or the metal thickness you want to etch to get the vertical flanges to have reasonable height (which would also stiffen the stanchion substantially BTW).

If you are going for this much realism, I'm not sure I would etch the handrail with the stanchions either.

Coming up with kits for various models would be the challenge, but approaching this one model at a time could be achieved over time (just not by me as I am quite booked with projects, like everyone else).