Dry transfer pointers

[PiperguyUMD]

Does anyone have any pointers for applying dry transfer decals? I've come into a couple of sets for Western Maryland hoppers in N scale and really don't want to screw these up!  Thanks for the help!

[wazzou]

Depending on the age and the complexity of where they are to be applied, I will often burnish them onto clear decal film and then apply them as a water slide decal.

[Brian M]

When I apply dry transfers onto a model, I use a small bit of tape attached to the edge of the backing paper (not covering any of the dry transfer artwork) to tape the dry transfer onto the model.  That way I can burnish the artwork onto the model, then lift the flap and see if there is any more ink that needs to get burnished.  And if there is (there almost always is), then it is simply a matter of pushing the paper back down and you should have the correct alignment maintained.  I've had success with this approach on everything from heralds down to car numbers on the ends of the cars.  My preferred tool for burnishing is actually the little wrench that came with my airbrush.  It has some nice curved pointed ends that don't tear the paper.

Be careful with how much pressure you apply while burnishing.  While it hasn't happened to me often, if you use too much pressure, the artwork can get distorted.  Once all of the artwork has been transferred onto the model, burnish it with the blank sheet of paper that should be included with the transfers.  If you make a mistake and need to remove something, you can press tape onto it and it should lift up.  But, then you have to have a backup set of lettering.

Finally, once you're done, seal it with an acrylic based flat coat.  Also, dry transfers work best on a flat coated surface, versus glossy.  So that's kind of nice because you can skip the gloss coat step if you're painting the cars yourself.

-Brian.

[PiperguyUMD]

Depending on the age and the complexity of where they are to be applied, I will often burnish them onto clear decal film and then apply them as a water slide decal.

These are, to my knowledge, brand new. My mind is blown by how simple this is! So you use this method if the application is very complex?

[jslean]

I use an empty ball point pen for burnishing.

John Slean

[peteski]

I use a special burnisher designed for dry-tranfers It looks like a pen but it has a metal tip with a ball on the end. The working end is sprung and the spring tension it adjustable.  It was made by Charrette for their Chart-pak dry transfers lettering which was very popular before personal computers and desktop publishing killed them off.

I have also applied dry transfers to clear decal paper, then applied the decal to the model.  But the preferred way is to use the dry-transfers directly in the model (no clear decal film to worry about).  For that the earlier-described trick of taping the transfer paper to the model (to make sure all the images transferred correctly) also works well.

[wazzou]

These are, to my knowledge, brand new. My mind is blown by how simple this is! So you use this method if the application is very complex?

Yes, if the transfer is to be applied between ribs or over/around/between other obstacles like stake pockets on a flatcar.
In the photo below, the arched lettering, herald, reporting marks and number were all applied using this method.

[Maletrain]

Where did you get new Western Maryland dry transfers?  And, are they the "speed lettering" or the earlier font?

[thomasjmdavis]

I use a special burnisher designed for dry-tranfers It looks like a pen but it has a metal tip with a ball on the end. The working end is sprung and the spring tension it adjustable.  It was made by Charrette for their Chart-pak dry transfers lettering which was very popular before personal computers and desktop publishing killed them off.

I have also applied dry transfers to clear decal paper, then applied the decal to the model.  But the preferred way is to use the dry-transfers directly in the model (no clear decal film to worry about).  For that the earlier-described trick of taping the transfer paper to the model (to make sure all the images transferred correctly) also works well.

People might want to check Dick Blick or other large graphic arts suppliers.  I have that same burnisher in my paint box, have used it for over 40 years, from the days when we would design title cards and such using Chart-pak lettering.  I have also found it handy for applying pressure when gluing small parts (the curved surfaces are gentler than a small screwdriver or xacto blade).

[PiperguyUMD]

Where did you get new Western Maryland dry transfers?  And, are they the "speed lettering" or the earlier font?

I found them at http://www.ozarkminiatures.com. They are the fast freight herald, but they had several other sets too. I have about a half dozen of my 3D printed U channel hoppers that have been waiting years for these decals!