Shapeways FM Switcher Shells

[Scottl]

Personally, I can't understand why everyone complains about unique and obscure models being rendered on Shapeways, even with the warts of the technology and current limitations.  It is better than the alternative, which is nothing (which people seem to complain about too!). 

Folks posting their digital renderings on line are sharing their efforts in a very positive way and I for one appreciate it for the effort and generous gesture it is.  We are seeing a transformation of the hobby unfold before our eyes with this technology- get on board or get left behind!  That is why I commented early in this thread- why think hard about it- just do it.  A $30 filler shell that gives you a loco until the technology gets better is a whole lot better than nothing.

Rant over.  I feel better.

[thbguy]

I agree.

I picked up one of these FM switchers shells about three weeks ago and am very happy with it. Dropped it in Bestine when it arrived and it came out looking excellent (and white) about three days later. I'll need to do a few modifications to make it a very passable CLC H12-44 Canadian National 1600-series switcher, circa 1956. It seems like it is going to be a winter of Fairbanks Morse/CLC projects!

Fantastic stuff and well worth the money.

Thank you!
Michael

[Dave Schneider]

Thanks everyone for the information. The photos over on Trainboard and the information here have convinced me to pick up a couple of these. Just to be clear, I wasn't complaining about Shapeways, just looking for more information. Mission accomplished.

Best wishes, Dave

[nickelplate759]

I'm building one of these.  I'd appreciate recommendations for a source for appropriate screening to go over the fan.

Regards,
George

[Altoona]

I have done 2, used Gold Metal Models N-scale chain link fence.

Judd Barton

[skytop35]

They are a lot of work but can be made into nice looking models. Take your time cleaning up the shells. I made sanding sticks by gluing sandpaper (400 and 600 grit) to pieces of .060 styrene  that fit the area I needed to sand. Work slowly around details. I didn't clean these up in one sitting. It's tedious, so quit when you get tired and come back to it later.

[muktown128]

Bill,

That FM switcher looks really good.  What did you use for the cab window glass?

Thanks,
Scott

[Cajonpassfan]

Dang it Bill, you do such nice work!
Otto K.

[skytop35]

Bill,

That FM switcher looks really good.  What did you use for the cab window glass?

Thanks,
Scott

Thanks Scott. I used .010 clear styrene for the windows. Handrails are bent and soldered from .008 phosphor bronze.

[skytop35]

Dang it Bill, you do such nice work!
Otto K.

Thanks Otto. I have another shell on my workbench but it's been sitting there a long time waiting for me to finish the sanding process. I really want a pair of these, just wish it was an easier build. Although not nearly as hard as the SDL39 I did many moons ago !

[Dave Schneider]

Bill,

How well does the shell attach to the mechanism? I have 3 of these shells. Two in FUD and one in FXD (or whatever its called). I had test fit them on the 1st generation mechanism and the tabs don't engage the mechanism. I have a 2nd generation mechanism coming in the mail and hoping that will solve the problem. Also interested in your DCC and sound setup for these. What did you use?

Best wishes, Dave

[skytop35]

Dave,

My shell is just a loose press fit on the 1st generation mechanism and hasn't given me any problems.

Frame modifications are the same as for the VO-1000 ala John Colombo. You can see it under the Loksound Micro Select decoder. The speaker has to go in the cab. I ordered some "sugar cube" 8mm x 12 mm speakers off eBay. These came with an enclosure that looks like a "sugar cube" but it seems to be permanently attached. The sound seems fine though. Here's a photo taken before I hooked up the LED's.



I went old school for the paint and used Scalecoat because I was hoping the thicker coat of paint might hide some of the print lines. Tru-Color paint is very thin and shows everything. It's a fine line though as thicker paint also hides fine details. In the end, I can still see the print lines but I'm still happy with it, that is until a ready to run unit comes out !

[Dave Schneider]

Dave,

My shell is just a loose press fit on the 1st generation mechanism and hasn't given me any problems.

Frame modifications are the same as for the VO-1000 ala John Colombo. You can see it under the Loksound Micro Select decoder. The speaker has to go in the cab. I ordered some "sugar cube" 8mm x 12 mm speakers off eBay. These came with an enclosure that looks like a "sugar cube" but it seems to be permanently attached. The sound seems fine though. Here's a photo taken before I hooked up the LED's.

I went old school for the paint and used Scalecoat because I was hoping the thicker coat of paint might hide some of the print lines. Tru-Color paint is very thin and shows everything. It's a fine line though as thicker paint also hides fine details. In the end, I can still see the print lines but I'm still happy with it, that is until a ready to run unit comes out !

Thanks Bill. I am not sure what you mean by "Frame modifications are the same as for the VO-1000 ala John Colombo." John, could you explain or a link?

Thanks,
Dave

[skytop35]

Thanks Bill. I am not sure what you mean by "Frame modifications are the same as for the VO-1000 ala John Colombo." John, could you explain or a link?

Thanks,
Dave

John did an install of a LokSound Micro Select into a VO-1000. Just follow his directions for that. It's actually an easier fit under the FM shell.

Here it is: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=31637.0

[Dave Schneider]

Thanks again Bill. I appreciate it.

Dave