How to do end-stripes for an NKP S4

[nickelplate759]

I want to turn either an (N-scale) Bachman S4 (which I don't have) or an undecorated Key S4 (which I do) into this:



It's the earlier of the two striped NKP schemes for this switcher.  I don't think the S4 was ever in the original no-stripe switcher scheme, and even if it were that's not what I want.

As far as I can tell, there are no decals available for the end stripes, unless you model HO - and even then they are sized for an EMD switcher, not an Alco.  The Microscale generic stripe decals have the wrong size and angle.

So - I'm looking for ideas on how to render the stripes.  So far my ideas are:

1. Paint yellow, mask, paint black.    I suspect I would struggle to make this look  good given my ability to accurately cut and place even Tamiya masking tape.

2. Cut narrrower stripes from the Microscale HO decals (at least the color would right, and if I'm careful the angles will be too.
3. Pay Microscale or someone else to make a decal set - $$$!

Does anyone have experience doing something similar to share?

I don't want the response to be about the merits of the two base models - I'm sure the Bachmann is better - but would really like advice on how to render the stripes.

George

[randgust]

Three thoughts....

1)  Put out an APB on all schemes that used yellow end stripes like that - you may get lucky and find another roads decals that you can use just for the end.  At least Microscale has 'most' of their images online now on their web page.   You'll have to slowly beat that to death.  For instance, if you needed orange, the SP tiger stripe scheme is a real go-to set.   SP and Santa Fe both have a thinner white and/or silver.   

2)  There's a guy out on Ebay that is doing all kinds of oddball decals and lists them under N scale Brass because they are intended to be decals for brass locomotives.   Haven't got one yet, but he sure is doing a lot of roadnames.   Might even custom make them for you.

3)  If you are content with black over yellow, you can either laser-print or inkjet print black stripes on a clear background and apply over yellow paint.    I drew my own for a couple schemes that way that were really oddballs.   It's not that impossible to use Paint to draw stripes, I've done it.   As you can trim out the excess, the only real precision is the points and angles.    If you have a really good end shot of the locomotive, you can even use it as a starter and use Photoshop to erase everything but the stripes you want and print that on decal paper.

[bman]

I used Microscale stripes to create the end chevrons(I believe that's the term for this striping).  It wasn't as hard as it looks.  Just take your time.  I find I mess up every time I try to speed up the process.  The thin line separating the maroon and grey is also a Microscale striping decal. 

[nickelplate759]

I used Microscale stripes to create the end chevrons(I believe that's the term for this striping).  It wasn't as hard as it looks.  Just take your time.  I find I mess up every time I try to speed up the process.

<edited to remove useless comment about posting pictures and replace with this useless comment>

The problem with the Microscale stripe sets that I've found (and yes, I've slogged through the on-line images as suggested) is that the angles are wrong for this scheme.  Other sets with stripes have similar issues - except for the HO NKP set.   I've thought about trying to cut and place individual stripes (maybe from a sheet of solid color).  Perhaps I'll have to experiment with that.

The printed black stripe idea is interested.  I'll bet it would work well on the cab end, but be very hard to match the black to the main body where it meets on the nose.

George

[bman]

Sorry 'bout that.  I was attemping to fix that while you posted.  I'm pre-coffee so it's not pretty.  And remembering a password on a Saturday morning?  Not this guy.   I made the angles myself using the straight striping decals.  I used the top of a freight car jewel case lid and a new Exacto blade.  I scribed the angles then applied the decal to the lid.  Cut the angles then wet the decal and it lifted right of to apply to the shell.  They didn't come out perfect.  I went back and touched up with paint to even things out.  And OC engines do not seem to have the same chevrons on them. 

[nickelplate759]

bman - it looks good to me!      I may try that and see what happens.

George

[Upstate Gator]

@bman's suggestion makes sense. If you can get the right stripe spacing, adjusting the angles should be straightforward.

[jdcolombo]

Same advice as Bman.

Here's an Arnold S-2; Microscale straight striping.  Cut a strip about to correct length, then cut angles with new #11 blade then applied to shell.  If the stripe is a bit long, wait until decal dries, cut through with new #11 blade and scrape off excess from end.  Engine number from Microscale NKP diesel set.

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John C.

[nickelplate759]

Wow John, if I can do half as well as that I'll be happy.
That's inspiration enough for me to give it a try!

Thanks,
George

[jdcolombo]

Wow John, if I can do half as well as that I'll be happy.
That's inspiration enough for me to give it a try!

Thanks,
George

Here's another thing you might try.  If you can find a photo of an S4 or S2 (I think the striping is the same, and the hood is the same size) taken directly head-on showing the striping, you can scan it and save it to your computer (the photo doesn't have to be in color - just has to be head on).  Then open it in some photo app, and print it (just in black and white), scaling it down (or up) as necessary until the print exactly matches the size of the nose of your model.  Now you have a template for cutting the striping strips.  Glue the template to a piece of wood (a small piece of soft pine 1/4 would be ideal, but anything would work), and then you can lay out pieces of striping on the template and use a #11 blade to precisely cut the strips at the correct angles and length.  Then apply the strips to your model.

I used this technique to do the nose stripes on a couple of GP7's before Atlas released its narrow-stripe unit, and it worked great.  It's still a pain to apply the individual stripes to the shell (hint: do them ONE AT A TIME, even though this will take an entire day by the time you apply, let dry, put on some more setting solution, let dry, move to the next stripe, etc.), but using a template like this will help the process.  The hard part may be finding a nose-on photo; I'm not sure I've seen such a photo in any of my NKP books, but I wasn't really looking for one.

John C.

EDIT:  FOUND A PHOTO: page 10 of Nickel Plate Road Diesel Locomotives by Kevin Holland has a great nose-on shot of S2 #44 next to a Berk.  If you don't have this book, e-mail me directly at jdcolombo@gmail.com and I'll scan the photo, crop it and send it to you.