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Hmmmm... the wheel gauge "problem" doesn't seem to be any worse (narrow) than what I see in the brand new Arnold SW1. It will run ok on Peco or Atlas C70 layouts but will not traverse Atlas C55 turnouts and probably any of the hand-laid turnouts. the wheels will climb up on either the guard rail or one of the frog's wing rails.
I wonder how it would on Kato turnouts ?
I wish manufacturers would make a move toward tighter tolerances (like Atlas has with some code 80 and all code 55 switches) because trains actually run more reliably with those tolerances than they do with the sloppier ones of old and present of most makers. It bugs me when these new locomotives don't meet NMRA specs. for wheel gauge. They finally got the flange size down so why is it so tough to put the wheels on the axles the right distance apart?Doug
My GHB L1s is completely torn down. There is no DCC decoder on board these models. There is an approximately 1/2"square circuit board in the tender with an 8-pin DIP socket and an 8-pin DIP plug with various components used for bi-directional constant intensity lighting. Both the headlight and tender light LED's are wired to solder pads on the circuit board. From the circuit board, six wires are routed to the engine: 2 wires for the motor leads, 2 wires for the headlight, and two wires for electrical pick-up from the two middle drivers. No direct connection from power pick-up to either the motor or the LED's.I edited the LED wiring spiel a few minutes after I posted this reply. And again - the DIP socket and plug on the circuit board are 8-pin
My GHB L1s is completely torn down.
You know the net, pics or it didn't happen. If possible, it could help those of us (me) who can only follow the trail blazed by others with this kind of stuff.
Pardon me, gentlemen - but it would take me days to figure out how to post pictures on the internet, as I have never done it before. I can take pictures of the disassembled model and email them as attachments to whoever might be interested. My email address is willie2982@gmail.com.In the meantime, owners of the GHB L1 can simply pop the body off the tender (4 tiny screws at the corners of the chassis), remove the black electrical tape from the circuit board, and verify the correctness of my claim. Work carefully - those wires are fragile, especially at the plug end of the harness that goes to the locomotive.