Laser Question

[glakedylan]

just wondering

what kind of file does Corel produce that the laser cutter uses?
is it USB connection? Wi-Fi? or plug n play disk?

thanks!

Gary

[peteski]

just wondering

what kind of file does Corel produce that the laser cutter uses?
is it USB connection? Wi-Fi? or plug n play disk?

thanks!

Gary

No file. There is a software plugin installed within Corel which allows you to cut directly from a Corel drawing.  It is similar to what you would do to to print the file to a regular printer.  The Corel Laser cutter plugin communicates directly with the laser cutter driver (and then with the laser unit through USB port).

At least that is how my vinyl cutter works - I suspect the laser cutter works in a similar way.

[glakedylan]

thanks, Peteski
the info is very appreciated

not to get too side tracked here
I have been a Paint Shop Pro user for decades
and never quite learned how to use some of the others

not sure it Paint Shop would create the type of file necessary
but having that capability would be really, really nice!

thanks, again.

[peteski]

I believe that Paint Shop Pro is a bitmap editor (not vector). It edits pixel-based graphic files. Corel Draw is a vector-drawing program.  It is more closely related to CAD programs.  Vector-based designs is what is needed for controlling machinery.

[glakedylan]

yes, Peteski....
I have tried inkscape and gimp
even looked into CAD
but the learning curve was a bit steep
for me at this point

thanks for the info, very appreciated...

sincerely--
Gary

[engineshop]

CorelDraw is very easy for laser cutting purposes.



Besides all the rectangle and circle tool, most of the time you work with the "shape tool" (red circle). The CorelDraw print screen picture shows the side of a building I am working on. It started as a rectangle and than I used the shape tool to get the angles. The little blue squares at the corners can be pulled/pushed, deleted or more can be added. It becomes your best friend and I used that tool 90% of the time.
If I want to send this drawing to the laser, I hit the print button and the software opens the laser cutting window. This software is supplied with the laser. Here it is called RetinaEngrave and apparently MicroMark calls their software "CorelLASER"



Now I just have to assign the speed, power and how many times I want the laser to cut each color. In this example: Red are only help lines and will only get 1% of the power. It will be like a pencil line. Next I run green and then the blue outline. Speed, power and repeats depend on the material.

This is only a very short overview and I would open a new topic to show more if requested.

[Chris333]

How long did it take you to draw that wall shown?

I just ask because I have just spent about 2 hours drawing a laser cut depot with autoCAD.

[engineshop]

It took me a while but not because of CorelDraw. I am designing the building from pictures like this:

[haasmarc]

Update: I have made the trek to Florida and drove the laser home in a mini-van.

I am in the process of clearing a spot in the garage to place it and then will be ready to start making some test cuts.

Question: Where do you buy the thin wood used for structures?  In the kits I have, there is really thin plywood for windows and such.  Then you have plain and siding sheets for walls.  Just curious where most people get their supplies.

[Chris333]

I'd use Laserboard for stuff like windows.

[Alaska Railroader]

There are 3 major aspects of lasering that you need to have a good grasp on if you want to do more than laser basic shapes. Drawing, practical application of drawing to the laser, and understanding how to run and maintain the laser itself.

One is the vector drawing program and how it best communicates cut and raster commands with your particular laser. When drawing, every line/area/colors have different functions. Hairline is always either a fine line etch or the cut through. Hairline will never raster. Anything with a fill color will never give you fine cuts. It’s black or shades of gray you want to achieve different depths of a rastered area. The color of the hairline determines the order in which a cut is made. On mine the red will cut through before the blue. Understanding this is the only way to successful cutting. CorelDRAW is exceptional for this purpose.

Whether you use CorelDRAW or some CAD program you need to understand how to draw with allowances for the actual width of the cut, particularly if you are going to try to fit it with multiple sides and windows/doors, etc. This will, naturally, take a lot of trial and error. Even though the hairline command is .003" it may be wider once it has cut the material and that will vary by material.

Once you have your drawing and are ready to test burn you need to understand what power, what speed, and what PPI it will take to give you the cleanest and most efficient final product. This alone is a time consuming trial and error and when you are a beginner you want to start at the lower end of these commands lest you start a fire.

I’m sure I don’t have to mention this but I am going to anyway. Read everything there is available to you about your particular laser, mechanically speaking. It isn’t your average power tool and it needs tender loving care. Get to know where the lenses are, how to remove and clean them properly including replacing them correctly after cleaning. Know your power off function in case of emergency. Make sure your auto-focus is not set to automatic, Corel has this option when you are setting your cut commands. Trust me on this and never click that box. This is different than the auto focus function on the machine itself.

You asked about materials. Most common are the different thicknesses of basswood and micro-ply. There is also acrylic, different laserboad thicknesses, taskboard, cardstock (great for learning with), MDF, and even paper. Shy away from foams as they are flammable. You can get wood from your local hobby shop (avoid balsa), online companies and ebay. Same for the acrylics. Don’t bother buying polycarbonate (Lexan) it will not and cannot be cut with a laser.

There is so much more but I hope this gives you a heads up on things to look out for. Best of luck to you and enjoy!

[nkalanaga]

Thin plywood used to be a very common material with RC airplane builders.  It may still be, but I haven't looked for any for a decade or more.  A hobby shop catering to them would be a good place to start.

[haasmarc]

Thanks Karin for the insight.

I am a software engineer and work in an aerospace manufacturing plant so I know a thing or two about maintaining sensitive equipment.  The laser is new to me, but with experimentation and some help from people with experience (like you!), so I don't have to reinvent the wheel, I am sure I will get the hang of it.