Why no DCC-ready FA1/2s? (fmerly How to DCC an FA-2?)

[OldEastRR]

Of course it'd be better if somebody made a new DCC-ready version of this loco, but FAs seem to be one of those locos nobody likes to do. When was the last "new" version made of this model? Back in the last century?

[peteski]

According to Spookshow's cyclopedia, the newest was in 2007:
http://www.spookshow.net/loco/ihcfa.html
And the runner-up from 2000:
http://www.spookshow.net/loco/llalcof.html

Neither is DCC-ready or DCC-friendly.

[Blazeman]

LIRR has one in the last photo he posted (L&N in E KY engineering thread). Wonder how he did his?

[nickelplate759]

The original 1990-s plastic-frame LifeLike is easy enough to put DCC in, but you'll have to solder to install something like a TCS M1.  You'll also have to cut down one of the lead weights (I'd choose the rear one.)

George

[OldEastRR]

Instead of E units ad infinitum, GP7s or multiple-manufacturer produced identical loco models now in DCC-ready versions, a manufacturer should do a DCC-version of the FA series. It's not like they were some obscure loco or only used by one railroad. It's a real project to modify one of the old LLs metal frames to DCC. I shun plastic frames because plastic warps and bends over time, and it not very heat-resistant. Also not as heavy as metal.
Another loco series is the RS1/2/3s -- no drop-in decoder versions there either. The TCS board for them is not a drop-in.
Seems strange that nobody seems interested in making DCC versions of these engines. But we're going to have an FL9!

[Puddington]

Not crazy at all from a mfg perspective. The existing tooling while not modern DCC equipped, looks modern and good. If we are deciding where to put limited tooling dollars that existing tooling plus the fact that much of the market having an FA model available will act as negative points against spending the money. Doesn't mean it wont happen but it's a consideration.

[sizemore]

To be honest the market is still flooded with FA-1's from LL, they can be found easy on FeeBay for a reasonable price. The (split frame) FA-2's are out there but not in the same numbers as the FA-1's and as such demand a higher pricetag. The FA-1's when released by LL/WallyWorld were a hard sell. In real life the FA-1 had a very short life from 1945 through 1950, and replaced by the FA-2. This means that most road-names on the FA-1 were early transition era stuff that isn't a big market in N like it is in HO.

I could see a market for splitframe FA-2's but they're still out there and attainable with a little hunting which probably prevents reruns or retooling. To echo what @Puddington has said, tooling dollars a better spent by a company for new previous unreleased products which gives a better yield on returns.

This forum and others are a great place to solicit services (get the jokes out now...), you might find someone who may be willing to mill the frames to accept a DZ123/5. Better than nothing.

The S.

[wm3798]

It's really not that difficult an install, but the A units do require some frame surgery to make room for a chip.  I usually just hack off the overhanging bit at the back, and file a channel down the middle to run the wiring.  The B unit is dirt simple, you put the chip in the gap where the cab isn't, and you don't have to wire in any lighting.

I've never tried it (The WM only had A units) but I bet an enterprising soul could put the decoder in the nose of the B unit and hardwire both A and B with a couple of jumpers and no milling.  Put a little draw bar and some "mu" cables between them to juice the A's light and motor, and SHAZAM!

Lee

[djconway]

If this is your first non-dropin it is really a good one to learn on.

I'll try to get some pictures tonight.
A hacksaw, file and soldering iron and about 1/2 an hour and done. longest part was cutting the tab on the frame.

 1 - start by removing the part of the left frame that overhangs the right frame.
 2 - file a slot on top of the frame for the wires run.
 3 - measure and cut the gray and orange wires
 4 - remove the brush caps (be careful not to lose the spring or the brushes) from the motor and solder the gray and orange wires to them (IIRC - gray is the top one)
 5 - connect the red and black wires to the red and black wires on the decoder
 6 - connect the white and blue wires to the front head light (if it is a LED leave it on the pad and cut the traces connecting it to the frame, and solder the wires to the pad on the LED side.)

See figure 1 in the attached decoder manual for the schematic of the wiring.
pictures would be a great help -- I'll try to get some tonight.

[CBQ Fan]

I had thought I heard Rapido is considering doing an FA unit? @Puddington

[OldEastRR]

Well, you'd have to  wonder how many of those excess FAs floating around would still be out there if they were DCC-ready in the first place.
Not everybody has the tools or the skills to do metal grinding, slotting, and soldering.

[basementcalling]

As a poor grad student in the early 90s I loved my plastic framed LL FA2. Decent shell detail for the time and cheap. Heavier than a brick and  an FA FB FB FA set with B units powered would pull the paint off the walls in the club layout room.

[LIRR]

Blaze,
My FAs are not DDC.....