Peco Code 55 Bridge Track?

[BCOL 747]

I am trying to construct a small section of bridge track from Peco Code 55 rail by cutting the sections between the ties and spacing them slightly further apart. I then have superglued Peco replacement ties between the ties I have spaced. The issue I am having is that I cannot get the replacement ties to stay superglued to the nickel silver rail. It appears that the ties are made from some sort of nylon or derlin material and even with the slightest nudge they fall off. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what adhesive I could use for this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Chris Dittmar

BC Rail Chetwynd Sub

[nkalanaga]

I have no idea what one would use, but if the track is mounted on a bridge, the ties should stay in place if they're glued to the bridge.  If all else fails, you could use thin plastic strips between the ties, glued to the bridge, to keep them space right.  A piece of 0.010 inch styrene, whatever width you like for tie spacing, should keep them from sliding.

If it was me, I'd go the other way.  Cut the spacers and slide the ties together.  It would waste half the rail, because there wouldn't be any ties left for the extra, but in the long run probably wouldn't be much more expensive than buying replacement ties.  Years ago I actually did that with Atlas code 80 flextrak, before deciding that leaving one tie every inch or so, and replacing the rest with wood, was easier.  With Peco's code 55, wooden ties probably WOULN'T be easier, so I'd go back to sliding the ties together.

[GimpLizard]

This might mean a bit more work (because you'll need to remove the whole "web" between the ties) but rather that widen the stock PECO spacing, why don't you just push the ties closer together?

(Oops. Should have read N Kalanaga's post before replying.)

[BCOL 747]

As it is Peco code 55 the track is heavily embedded in the ties and web. I was worried I would ruin the rail when removing the ties. I ended up removing four ties at a time from the end of the rail, cutting each tie out individually and sliding them back onto the rail while spacing them closer together as you both suggested. It took a while but it looks like bridge track.
 
Thank you for your suggestions gentlemen.

Chris 

[Erik PRR]

I have done I like N Kalanga suggested. It worked, but there are thin threads of resin running along and in that extra web of the rail. Those threads were hard to cut and could sometimes be seen pointing out. Bridge track should also have longer ties than regular track.

So in the end I wasn't quite satisfied with the track, although it was better than just running normal track over the trestle.

[nkalanaga]

Chris:  On the Peco track that was probably the easiest way to do it.  That extra embedded section does make separating ties a pain.  The only place I used Peco track was in my staging yard, but I had to remove the end ties on the outer turnout to connect it to the ME code 55 on the visible section.  I think that was harder than filing the lower portion of the rail to fit a standard rail joiner.

Erik PRR:  I agree.  Simply moving the ties closer together doesn't look as good, but it does work.  One option to hide that is to add walkways and railings.  Some bridges have the walways supported by separate wood or metal brackets between the ties, which is real easy to do with styrene strip.  The NS bridge over the main road into Kenova, WV from the Interstate is one example.  Most use extra long bridge ties to support the ends of the walkway boards, and those can be done with styrene, by replacing a tie every few spaces.  Once the ties have been cut apart it's easy to through a new one in as needed, while still using the existing ones for gauging.